Sargent and fashion

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Through History

A new exhibition displays the iconic works of John Singer Sargent and explores his use of couture

Main image: ©Alamy

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, American artist John Singer Sargent made his name painting the portraits of the wealthy and elite. His work was noteworthy for the way his art showcased the individuality of the people he painted, with many of his sitters captured wearing beautiful and elaborate clothing. When painting his subjects, Sargent was known to hand pick the outfits they wore, and to physically alter and manipulate fabric to frame them. In one of Tate Britain’s latest exhibitions, Sargent and Fashion, a selection of Sargent’s portraits will be displayed to reveal the painter’s role as an artistic force in fashion and to delve into the society in which he worked.

Among the 60 paintings in Tate Britain’s exhibition, staged in collaboration with the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, are a selection of rare and significant works of Sargent’s that rarely travel. Also on display are a collection of outfits and fashion pieces that were worn by Sargent’s sitters, shown next to the portraits in which they feature. Through the lens of Sargent’s portraits, themes of patronage, societal subversion and shifting gender roles will all be explored, offering “the chance to discover and reconsider Sargent and his enduring influence.”

LADY SASSOON, 1907 Displayed at the beginning of the exhibition, this portrait of Lady Sassoon epitomises how Sargent manipulated clothing to make his paintings. The original black taffeta opera cloak worn by Lady Sassoon will be shown alongside the portrait.
©Houghton Hall
A LADY IN WHITE, 1889-1890 In this portrait of the teenage Elsie Palmer, whose family invited Sargent to their manor house near Kent, England to paint their daughter, Sargent uses fashion to show a young woman caught between childhood and adulthood. The white tea gown Elsie is wearing is shown to be too big for the child.
©Colorado Springs Fine Arts Center (Colorado Springs, USA)
MADAME X, 1883-1884One of Sargent’s most daring portraits is of socialite Madame Pierre Gautreau, entitled Madame X. In this iconic painting, Sargent showcased Madame Gautreau’s bold style and in the original work had one of the silver straps of her dress falling from her shoulder, before he reworked the portrait to be less salacious.
©The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Art Resource/Scala, Florence
MRS CARL MEYER AND HER CHILDREN, 1896 Painted to show the wealth a
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