We explore the queer and vibrant streets of Miami Beach before getting a feel for Wynwood, Miami’s trendy up-and-coming neighbourhood
Words Alastair James
There’s a collective gasp as our airboat driver, Humberto, jumps over the banister of the raised walkway separating our group from a supposedly 60-year-old female alligator. What seems like sheer recklessness is of no concern to Humberto, however, who assures us he and the affectionately named ‘Mama Gator’ are so well acquainted she can recognise Humberto by the sound and vibrations of his swamp craft.
Humberto takes one of our phones to snap some closeups and casually bops Mama G on the snout as he explains how he can tell her apart from the others because of the ridges along her back. Later, he pats her on the belly, like you would a dog. Amazingly, the alligator remains unperturbed throughout most of the encounter as she bathes in the Florida sunshine. Eventually, she moves away in what I suspect is mild irritation.
As far as ‘wow!’ moments go, Tigertail Airboat Tours’ trip around the mangroves and marshes of Everglades National Park, on Florida’s southern tip, is just that. An easy day out from Miami, it took just 45 minutes for the high rises to melt away and for our group of LGBTQ+ journalists to arrive here.
It’s hard to not be impressed by the vastness of the 1.5-million-acre wetlands, of which we cover a fraction. The sun glints off the water as we race over the surface. Pointing out the Cypress trees starved white by the dry winter, our guides, Houston and Jean, describe how nature comes alive with luminous colour and vibrancy in the wet summer months.
Great blue herons and snowy egrets soar overhead as we continue on. While wearing industrial ear covers to muffle the boat’s motor, we marvel as an osprey dives before flying off with a fresh fish for breakfast. On one of the small islands scattered throughout the park, used for centuries by Native American tribes such as the Miccosukee, we’re shown a variety of wildlife. We take turns holding the baby alligator — named Birthmark for the distinguishing blemish on the lower part of its mouth — as well as some adorable baby softshell turtles and a more aggressive alligator-snapping turtle. Regardless of its miniature size, it has serious attitude, craning its neck backwards in an attempt to take a bite out of Humberto. Very cute but very deadly.
Houston, who is Miccosukee and part of the Otter Clan, details the history of his culture with the Everglades, which in Miccosukee are called Kahayatle (meaning ‘the light in the water at sunset’). He mourns the
