From the primitive days of Neolithic farming to today’s diversified land use, this valley in north-west Wales is a microcosm of agriculture’s journey through the ages, says Julie Brominicks
DAY OUT: Cwm Nantcol, Gwynedd
Many paths traverse Cwm Nantcol, from over the mountain range of Y Rhinogydd, or the village of Llanbedr. Once we hiked up from the south.
Having just crossed Pont Scethin, the bridge used by drovers leading cattle from the coastal plain to Dolgellau and English markets beyond, we had farming on our minds.
The pass on Moelfre hill was a good spot for contemplation. Y Rhinogydd’s slopes were blushing as the sun slid towards the sea. Below us, drystone walls radiated from scattered farms in glorious scribbles. Sheep nibbled the hills, and cattle lowed near the river.
DROVERS OF NANTCOL
Neolithic peoples who left tombs around Afon Ysgethin river were the first farmers. Bronze Age hill deforestation followed – for grazing livestock on what was, initially, fertile soil. Both soil and climate had deteriorated by the Iron Age, and peat developed. Local Iron Age settlements were used seasonally, and farmers lived alongside stock in the uplands in summer for centuries – the place names remember. ‘Hafod’ refers to summer hilltop residences, and ‘hendre’ to lowland winter bases – Hendre Waelod being an example.
Livestock suited hills and large landowners. Many tenants bought farms they had worked for generations after the decline of the gentry following the First World War, but th
