How to get there and what to bring, by Amanda Thomson
EIGG
The only way to get to Eigg is by boat (and note, only foot passengers) either by CalMac ferry from Mallaig (calmac.co.uk), or on the Sheerwater from Arisaig (arisaig.co.uk/sheerwater-timetable/).
The only cars on the island are those of the residents, so you will need to book Charlie’s taxi, or hire a bike or e-bike, stick out your thumb and see if you can get a lift from a local, or walk. It’s about four miles from where the ferry comes in to the north of the island.
For details about accommodation – self-catering, B&Bs or camping – and for more info, go to isleofeigg.org. It has fascinating introductions to the island’s history, geology and archaeology. You will find details about food and drink, activities, concerts and events (including walks every Wednesday with the Scottish Wildlife Trust’s seasonal ranger) and bike and kayak hire, as well as more about Eigg Electricity. You will also find a link to the shop where can pre-order supplies to collect when you arrive.
NORTH UIST AND THE OUTER HEBRIDES
Loganair flies from Glasgow and Inverness to Benbecula and there are also flights from there and Edinburgh to Barra and Stornoway. loganair.co.uk Most people will travel by Caledonian MacBrayne ferry, with a variety of routes to reach your destination, arriving in Berneray, South or North Uist. The CalMac website has great maps of their routes to help you plan. Ferries can be subject to the vagaries of Scottish weather, so taking travel insurance out and having a degree of flexibility or sanguinity can be helpful. You will need to book well in advance. calmac.co.uk There’s a range of places to stay on the Uists and Benbecula, to suit all budgets. Visitouterhebrides.co.uk is a good start for exploring accommodation options, things to do (boat trips, kayaking and cycling), food and drink, and arts and crafts. Look out for the food trucks at Balranald and Sollas. Taigh Chearsabhagh, North Uist’s arts centre in Lochmaddy, has a café, shop and exhibition spaces.
FIELD GUIDES
Bring your favourite bird book – my preference is Collins Bird Guide, also downloadable as an app. You may want to get Michael Scott’s Scottish Wild Flowers (Birlinn, 2011). You can buy an ID guide about whales, dolphins and porpoises from the Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust’s online shop (hwdt. org); spot their posters with information about species on CalMac Ferries.
RULES OF THE ROAD
Single-track roads are common in the Outer Hebrides and elsewhere in the Highlands. It is worth familiarising y
