The ‘malicious mountain’, the ‘mountain with its head in the clouds’ – Britain’s highest peak has a number of daunting epithets, but come prepared and you will be rewarded with some of the greatest views in the country, assures Fergal MacErlean
Fergal MacErlean is an outdoors writer who loves exploring Scotland on foot.
WALK: Ben Nevis, Highland
Towering above the west coast town of Fort William in Lochaber is mighty Ben Nevis, a huge whale-back peak that ends dramatically with a formidable band of cliffs. At 1,345m, ‘The Ben’ is Britain’s highest mountain.
The summit of Ben Nevis is composed of andesite, which collapsed, as lavas, into a chamber of molten granite 410 million years ago. This explosive past, and its status as Britain’s highest peak, attract some 125,000 visitors every year. Most come to bag the Munro via the main 10-mile Mountain Track, or Pony Track, but it is also a magnet for climbers drawn to its many famous winter and summer climbing routes, not least the North East Buttress.
The name Ben Nevis is an anglicisation of the Gaelic ‘Beinn Nibheis’, which has two translations: one meaning the ‘malicious mountain’ or ‘venomous mountain’; the other the ‘mountain with its head in the clouds’. Which translation is most accurate remains open to debate, but Beinn Nibheis certainly has its share of cloudy days, with 355 on average every year.
This is mountain country, and where there are mountains in Scotland, there is often a suitable cast of upland wildlife. Golden and white-tailed eagles may be seen, as well as red deer, pine martens, snow buntings, ptarmigans and, in spring, rare butterflies, such as the chequered skipper.
BEFORE YOU CLIMB...
The path to Ben Nevis starts close to sea level and involves a huge vertical ascent to reach the summit at 1,345m (4,413ft). Initially a good, wide path ascends the lower slopes but this deteriorates on the higher, rough, granite boulder-and-scree-strewn ground below the summit.
Experienced walkers should complete the return route in five to six hours, others may take up to 10 hours. Competency in mountain navigation is essential. During the winter months and into early summer, when snow still covers the upper part of the mountain, you may also need an ice axe and crampons – and know how to use them. Mid to late summer is the best time for an ascent.
1 OVER THE RIVER
Start from the Ben Nevis Visitor Centre in Glen Nevis where there is a pay and display
