Explore the national park’s prettiest and most fascinating settlements this autumn
By Roly Smith
1 Castleton Spectacular show caves
Castleton’s fame lies in its splendid situation, standing at the head of the beautiful Hope Valley and surrounded by hills that are at the geological junction of the White and Dark Peaks. This planned township dates from the 12th century, when it was laid out on a grid-iron design beneath commanding Peveril Castle (pictured), on a lofty crag between the precipitous gorges of Peak Cavern and Cave Dale.
Today, Castleton depends largely on the tourist trade; the four famous show caves of Peak Cavern, Treak Cliff, Speedwell and Blue John attract thousands of visitors every year. The oldest of the show caves is Peak Cavern, directly beneath Peveril Castle, which is said to have the largest cave entrance in Britain. It recently reverted to its ruder ancient name, the Devil’s Arse. Treak Cliff Cavern, on the now-closed road towards Mam Tor, has the finest formations of stalactites, stalagmites and illuminated pools.
Blue John Cavern, beneath the land-slipped east face of Mam Tor, takes its name from the veins of the unique mineral which is sold as ornaments in the town’s many trinket shops. Speedwell Cavern, reached by boat via an underground canal, is at the foot of Winnats Pass, a spectacular dry limestone gorge that carries the road from Chapel-en-le-Frith to Castleton.
Local walk
• A stepped and paved walk from Mam Nick car park to the summit of Mam Tor, through the ramparts of one of the highest Iron Age hillforts in the Pennines.
2 Tideswell Magnificent parish church
Tideswell (local nickname “Tidser”) has the prosperous, urban air of a small town. It is perhaps best known for its magnificent parish church of St John the Baptist (above), known with some justification as ‘the Cathedral of the Peak’, and described by Sir John Betjeman as “a grand and inspiring church”.
The Decorated-style church has a wonderfully light and airy chancel, and is a rarity among parish churches in that it was almost entirely built within one period – in about 70 years from 1300. This gives the elegant, cruciform church a wonderful uniformity of appearance missing from so many other churches. Only the impressive turreted and pinnacled west tower was added later.
The right to hold a market at Tideswe
