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Where to stay and what to see on the West Highland Way, by Dixe Wills

Rising out of Glen Coe, Dixe climbs the Devil’s Staircase on the penultimate day of the hike as he heads towards Kinlochleven
Photo: Brodie Hood

ESSENTIAL READING

While a guidebook isn’t strictly necessary, Walking the West Highland Way (Cicerone) is a cracker. It contains all the directions both ways,

itinerary suggestions for six to nine days, accommodation, shops, eateries and some history too. Best of all, it comes with a separate booklet with end-to-end Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 mapping.

ACCOMMODATION

NIGHT 1 Oak Tree Inn, Balmaha

Balmaha, at the southern end of Loch Lomond, is more resort than village, with the Oak Tree as its bar-cum-hotel. I stayed in one of their fancy ‘superior pods’ – a sort of outdoors hotel room near the shore. theoaktreeinn.co.uk

NIGHT 2 Campsite at Inversnaid Bunkhouse

A converted 19th-century church, the seven-room bunkhouse has its own bistro, complete with stained-glass windows. I pitched up on their small lawn, which has room for a dozen or so tents.

inversnaid.com

NIGHT 3 Crianlarich Youth Hostel

A friendly place with a mixture of dorms and private rooms, a well-equipped kitchen, dining room and (often a godsend) a drying room. hostellingscotland.org.uk/hostels/crianlarich/

NIGHT 4 Bridge of Orchy Hotel

Arguably the swishest place on the whole Way (right). I stayed in one of the venerable hotel’s annexe rooms with a patio and view towards the eponymous bridge over the River Orchy. bridgeoforchy.co.uk

For a cheaper option, try the neighbouring Greenstone Lodge B&B. greenstonelodge.co.uk

NIGHT 5 Edencoille Bed & Breakfast, Kinlochleven

A family-run establishment with a very particular style and some lovely touches in the room, such as a mighty array of teas and a foot spa. kinloch levenbedandbreakfast.co.uk

NIGHT 6 Glen Nevis campsite, nr Fort William

The closest campsite to Fort William, Glen Nevis is large but split into smaller fields, and has a restaurant/bar too. glen-nevis.co.uk/campsite

CAMPING

It’s possible to wild camp from end to end; just remember to respect nature and fellow walkers and leave no trace. One favoured spot is next to the bridge at Bridge of Orchy, where there are free portaloos f

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