Where to stay and what to see on the West Highland Way, by Dixe Wills
ESSENTIAL READING
While a guidebook isn’t strictly necessary, Walking the West Highland Way (Cicerone) is a cracker. It contains all the directions both ways,
itinerary suggestions for six to nine days, accommodation, shops, eateries and some history too. Best of all, it comes with a separate booklet with end-to-end Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 mapping.
ACCOMMODATION
NIGHT 1 Oak Tree Inn, Balmaha
Balmaha, at the southern end of Loch Lomond, is more resort than village, with the Oak Tree as its bar-cum-hotel. I stayed in one of their fancy ‘superior pods’ – a sort of outdoors hotel room near the shore. theoaktreeinn.co.uk
NIGHT 2 Campsite at Inversnaid Bunkhouse
A converted 19th-century church, the seven-room bunkhouse has its own bistro, complete with stained-glass windows. I pitched up on their small lawn, which has room for a dozen or so tents.
inversnaid.com
NIGHT 3 Crianlarich Youth Hostel
A friendly place with a mixture of dorms and private rooms, a well-equipped kitchen, dining room and (often a godsend) a drying room. hostellingscotland.org.uk/hostels/crianlarich/
NIGHT 4 Bridge of Orchy Hotel
Arguably the swishest place on the whole Way (right). I stayed in one of the venerable hotel’s annexe rooms with a patio and view towards the eponymous bridge over the River Orchy. bridgeoforchy.co.uk
For a cheaper option, try the neighbouring Greenstone Lodge B&B. greenstonelodge.co.uk
NIGHT 5 Edencoille Bed & Breakfast, Kinlochleven
A family-run establishment with a very particular style and some lovely touches in the room, such as a mighty array of teas and a foot spa. kinloch levenbedandbreakfast.co.uk
NIGHT 6 Glen Nevis campsite, nr Fort William
The closest campsite to Fort William, Glen Nevis is large but split into smaller fields, and has a restaurant/bar too. glen-nevis.co.uk/campsite
CAMPING
It’s possible to wild camp from end to end; just remember to respect nature and fellow walkers and leave no trace. One favoured spot is next to the bridge at Bridge of Orchy, where there are free portaloos f