best for BEAUTY
The super skincare ingredient is having a shake-up – Lesley Reynolds from the Harley Street Skin Clinic gives us the lowdown...
THE LOWDOWN
Derived from vitamin A, retinol has long been hailed for its effectiveness against common skin concerns like wrinkles, acne and spots. Found in various skincare products, vitamin A and its derivatives are essential skinconditioning agents, naturally occurring in foods such as fish, eggs, and dairy. However, when used in higher concentrations or without proper guidance, retinol can lead to skin irritations and issues. To address concerns about potential overexposure, the EU Commission has implemented limits. Now, over-the-counter products are capped at 0.3 per cent pure retinol equivalence for facial and hand products, while body lotions can contain up to 0.05 per cent.
The new regulations only impact over-thecounter retinol products, not prescription tretinoin, which is a preparation of retinoic acid used to treat acne. This is because it’s absorbed in small amounts, and is unlikely to cause excessive levels of vitamin A in the body. Although retinol is not as strong as tretinoin, use with caution. Stick to night-time application as it can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight.
WHAT NEXT?
● For some brands, the regulation prompts a reassessment of how to maintain product efficacy while adhering to the new rules. However, some beauty companies have introduced products with reduced retinol concentrations. In anticipation of the shift, other brands may turn to plantbased retinol alternatives like bakuchiol, which mimics retinol’s effects in boosting cell turnover. Yet, experts caution that bakuchiol is less potent than retinol.
● As for alternatives, NovoRetin is emerging as a contender, activating similar pathways as retinol. Suppliers are delving into biotechnology for ingredients that deliver similar effects as retinol. However, challenges in communicating the viability of bio-based ingredients persist, especially as
