Author Greg Mosse shares his love of Carcassonne – a medieval city steeped with history and with breathtaking scenery
TRAVEL SNAPSHOT
As your plane begins its descent into Carcassonne, out of the tiny windows you will glimpse the distant chain of the snow-capped Pyrenees, marking the geographical frontier between France and Spain. Closer to hand, as you bank and dip, extensive vineyards and the winding river Aude will come into focus, plus the extraordinary rings of battlements and watch-towers that surround the medieval fortress city, built on two-thousand-yearold Gallo-Roman foundations.
INSIDER’S GUIDE
Everything you could possibly need is available within walking distance, the two halves of the city divided by the beautiful river – on the one hand, the inspiring medieval citadel, on the other a grid of narrow, pedestrianised streets and squares. Waterside walks, museums, galleries and restaurants jostle for your attention in the picturesque heart. There are buses and taxis but the airport is so close to the town centre, that you could pass through customs and stroll in on foot.
GETTING THERE:
Thirty-five years ago, when Kate Mosse and I first visited Carcassonne, the airport was an important base for the ‘pompiers de l’air’, fire-fighters on the lookout for summer wildfires. Today, it’s an international hub. My preference, though, is to drive down on the exceptional French motorway network. There’s a great train service, too.
STAYING THERE:
The magnificent five-star Hôtel de la Cité, built into the battlements of the citadel, is managed by a local family and boasts impeccable service and facilities. Prices start from £337 per night. The three-star Hôtel Montmorency, just outside the city walls, is lovely and has a great view of the drawbridge and gates. The tiny Hôtel du Pont-Vieux, below the battlements on the river, is a charming, economical choice, rooms are £103 per night on booking.com
DON’T MISS
If you like the heat and adore music – both contemporary and classical – try and visit Carcassonne in July and buy seats in the vast open-air amphitheatre for the annual Festival of Carcassonne.
