Escape the crowds for a break on Cornwall’s lesser-known Roseland Peninsula
Words & pictures ❚ Scott Currie
ROAD TRIPS CORNWALL
We really are up the creek without a paddle. Well, two creeks to be accurate. Our forward view sees yachts moored in the Truro River and the Tresilian River, the two creeks of the Fal Estuary furthest from the sea. Behind us is the Heron Inn, Malpas, around two miles from Truro. Beautiful sunshine adds to this most wonderful scene, and a heron, stock-still in the lapping water, brings a sense of completeness to all. Being up the creek without a paddle isn’t so bad after all, unless you’re the fish that the heron is about to spear! On the opposite bank of the Tresilian creek is the Roseland Peninsula, perhaps Cornwall’s best-kept secret, and our base for 10 nights, Merrose Farm Caravan and Motorhome Club site, near Portscatho.
We rise early in the morning to beat the madding crowd coming down the M5 and pass the multiple landmarks that mark a journey to Cornwall. Finally, we see the white pyramids from the erstwhile China Clay workings and turn southwards towards our destination.
The Roseland is about as perfect as it gets for doing some walking. We start off with a short walk to Pendower Beach, and, after a browse in the Curgurrell Farm Shop, we find ourselves on the much-trodden South West Coast Path, eastbound. The view over the sweep of Gerrans Bay is magnificent from Nare Point to the front, and behind us to Portscatho and Greeb Point. It’s this rear view that fills us with some trepidation, as a classic Cornish squall is whipping over the sea.
As luck would have it, we find a handy clump of windswept trees and shelter from the sharp downpour… and as luck would have it, we find similar, from a second more prolonged (and heavier) shower, minutes later. After this, we are unhindered before arriving at Pendower Beach, a fine stretch of sand that segues into Carne Beach at low tide.
The sadly dilapidated cluster of fishermen’s cottages are, happily, undergoing renovation, and rest and refreshment is found in the adjoining Shallikabooky Beach Hut, which gives great views over the beach. With plenty of free time between our expeditions/exploits during our 10 days, we visit this pleasant emporium a couple more times.
Likewise, we take the coast path, westbound, on a handful of occasions, which brings us, via Porthbean Beach and the Portscatho Lookout Station, to Porthcurnick Beach and the semi-legendary Hidden Hut café.
