Your non-diagnostic vehicle-related problems solved by Steve Rothwell
GENERAL
Q I’m hoping you can help out (again!) with a problem this time on my kit car. It’s using a 2.0 SIlvertop Zetec, with a Brise alternator fitted.
I’ve only just got it completed, and still have a few wiring glitches to sort out, so when I saw that the battery warning light wasn’t going out when I start the engine, I just put it down to being another glitch.
However, it went for its MOT the other day, and the mechanic there (who I’ve used for years and trust) said it looked like an alternator problem, because the battery voltage doesn’t go up when the engine starts.
My issue is that the alternator that’s on, while a few years old, was new with the kit, and has only done about 40 miles, so I’m a bit reluctant to splash out on a new one without first checking that it is, indeed, faulty.
Is there a simple way of checking it please?
A The Brise alternator should be a simple three-wire alternator with an internal regulator, and so diagnosis should be simple. This is providing the vehicle hasn’t been fitted with the Ford smart charging system, which I would not expect it to be.
The three wires coming from the alternator should be the large main 12-volt feed to the battery positive terminal, and the two smaller terminals which are the ignition feed to the alternator marked IG and the feed to the warning light marked L. Brise do have the wiring diagram on their website at this link https://bit.ly/CM6dAWL
The first check would be to ensure that the IG terminal has a feed when the ignition is switched on, and that the main lead has a constant 12V feed. If this is the case and the voltage of the battery/main lead does not rise when the engine is running, then it does sound as though the alternator has failed.
The ignition warning light is illuminated by earthing through the alternator, and when the alternator begins to charge the current is effectively pushed back through the ignition light circuit, closing the earth and extinguishing the light. If this is not occurring, then the failure is most likely internal.
FORD FOCUS
Q I’m looking for a Ford Focus or Mondeo with 2.0 diesel engine around 8 to 10 years old, ideally an automatic but after reading about troubles with the Powershift transmission I would rather go for the one with a torque converter.
Can you tell me if those models with 2.0 TDCi engines were ever equipped with a ‘normal’ automatic transmissions or only available with a direct shift ones. If so, how can I tell the difference when browsing the adverts or what should I be asking the seller for, when enquiring for information?
A From the data I have all of the automatic options in the secondgeneration (2004-2011) Ford Focus range were the Powershift type.
