D1 The MOT Test does not remove wheels, which is why you should do so at service time. Cleaning the inside surfaces is a good idea and enhances the look of the car post-cleaning. Check the rim for damage and corrosion. Inspect the tyres for low tread depths plus cuts, splits and bulges. D2 Check all corrugated rubber/plastic bellows that protect the steering, transmission and suspension components. They should be secure and undamaged. If you notice oil seeping from the steering ends, the rack is leaking and needs replacement.D3 Having the wheel removed provides better access for you to check the brake linings. Ensure that they have more than 3mm remaining, the discs are uncorroded and free from deep scoring. Light corrosion is acceptable. If drum brakes are fitted on the rear, remove the drums and check the lining depth. D4 Inspect all suspension joint protective rubbers for splits – if you find any, either replace the gaiter, or renew the complete part. It is not easy for DIYers to check the joints for condition but MOT testers do this anyway and will advise accordingly. Split rubbers are also an MOT failure point issue.D5 Some cars require manual periodic parking brake adjustment. Rear discs that incorporate the mechanism are especially vulnerable to seizing, so check that the hub can rotate freely, with the park brake released. Lubricating the operating arm will help but avoid grease contaminating the friction surfaces. D7 Inspect all springs for corrosion and xsecurity. If any are broken, do not drive the car and consider that springs should be replaced in axle pairs. The dampers should also be free from leaks; light oil misting can still pass the MOT Test but a responsible owner should renew them, again, as matched axle sets. D8 Check rubber brake pipes for perishing and metal brake lines for corrosion. The lines on this car have been coated in grease previously as sensible preventative maintenance. It may be an old-fashioned approach but it works. D9 Verify that the exhaust system is in sound condition and not corroded to such as extent that it is weakened. All rubber mounts should also be in good order. If you can see any wiring, check that is not chafing against surrounding panels, or soundproofing. D6 Check the suspension rubber bushes. The inner picture shows that this Volvo’s control arm bush has deteriorated, although not excessively. Even so, it allows the owner to budget for its replacement within the coming year. D10 Contrary to popular opinion, modern cars rust. Check the underside for corrosion, especially at the sills and rear of the car, which are exposed to dirt and mud thrown up by the wheels. Check that any protective mouldings are undamaged and secure. D11 With the under tray still removed, inspect the front-end auxiliary drive belts. While professionals evaluate the ribs with a depth gauge,
