Pitchside views

‘La Serenissima’ can be at its most romantic out of season — when the fog drifting over the canals is so thick the gondolas seem to float on air, and summer’s visitors have thinned. You’ll still want to book your accommodation in advance but you’ll hardly be short of options. Some of the grandest stays are in the shadow of St Mark’s Square, while more residential sestieri (districts) such as Santa Croce offer a slice of local life. For something different, opt for nearby islands — such as the Lido, site of the Venice Film Festival, or Mazzorbo, where grapevines have grown for centuries. Whichever you choose, the most atmospheric way to arrive is by ferry or water taxi — this is a city best experienced on water, after all.

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