Bumbling through enticing Northumberland from coast to countryside
Words & photography: Sharon Whitcroft
It was my first notable trip of the new season and when I slowly awoke that first morning I struggled to recall where I was at first. Slowly, I began to remember I was in the north of England, and that the weather forecast had mentioned a high chance of snow on the hills with the possibility some might also reach low ground if the conditions were right.
I sprang up with childlike anticipation to push the curtains back, only to be a little bit disappointed. I was on peaceful Englethwaite Hall campsite. It sits in a shady woodland with very little in the way of facilities (no toilet block), but the sights and sounds of nature more than made up for any minor inconveniences.
I was only booked in for one night, so I packed up early next morning to take the short drive to Talkin Tarn Country Park near Brampton. I’d spotted this small body of water on my Ordnance Survey map and thought it might be worth having a look before beginning my longer journey towards Berwick-upon-Tweed.
On a cold, sunny April morning, the mirror-like waters of Talkin Tarn proved a delight. There were a number of pathways to choose from, but I decided on the gentle 50-minute stroll around the tarn and, with the small water sports centre and the tea room both closed at the time, it was extremely peaceful. I was glad I’d taken the trouble to stop and, with more time available, it would definitely be somewhere worth further exploration.
I continued to hit it lucky with the good weather in the historical border town of Berwick-upon-Tweed. I was staying at Berwick Seaview campsite in Spittal, which enjoys an elevated position, affording excellent views across Berwick town, the harbour and Spittal Beach.
Some places are always worth repeat visits and Berwick falls into this category. I’d been before, but never walked out to the end of the long pier that dominates the view from the campground.
My efforts were stalled, though, when I encountered a burly individual, sporting the words ‘Close Protection’ on the back of his black jacket, barring my access to the pier. Apparently they were filming the TV detective series, Vera, so the pier was off limits all day.
I was gutted almost beyond words, but there was nothing to be done and so off I trotted to explore the equally impressive town walls instead. I later returned to th
