BUYING GUIDE
V8 HEALTH-CHECK
The V8 is unstressed and should keep going for ever if the oil and coolant have been changed regularly. The former should be carried out every 3000 miles and is essential if the camshaft isn’t to wear prematurely, while the latter is needed to protect the engine from internal corrosion leading to blocked coolant passages. Look for signs of overheating or compromised cylinder head gaskets along with leaks from the radiator or water pump. Poor running is often caused by worn SU carburettors or a tired ignition system. An aftermarket electronic fuel pump can improve matters.
BODGER AND PATCHER
The monocoque bodyshell can be seriously weakened by rust and bodges are common. Expect corrosion in the complex sill structures. Proper repairs entail cutting off the front and rear wing sections (below the trim strip) or unbolting the front wings. Check for over-sills or correctly repaired outer sills masking rotten inners. Many examples have been restored but quality work is crucial so check for filler and ill-fitting panels; door alignment is hard to get right, too, with doors often catching the B-post.
TRANSMISSION CHECKS
Watch for jumping out of gear, worn synchromesh and general whines and rumbles. Chipped teeth on second and third gears are usually indicated by a ticking sound when driving. Also check the operation of the Laycock overdrive because dirty or incorrect oil or wiring issues cause problems. Also watch for a worn or oil-contaminated clutch. If the back axle is noisy, budget about £500 for replacing the crownwheel and pinion with re-manufactured items of the correct V8-specific ratio.
MUST CHECK FOR RUST
Be wary of plastic wheel arch liners because they may hide rust, but they’re probably there for the right reasons if the car looks cherished. The spring hangers rot and the battery tray next to the offside hanger (chrome bumper cars have one on each side) also rots. Make sure that the tray is intact by checking from underneath and also ensure that the floorpans are in good order – the original underseal cracks then peels off, leading to corrosion. The top of the fuel tank is corrugated for strength so water collects between the top of the tank and the underside of the boot floor where it attaches. If you can smell fuel, assume that the tank has perforated and needs replacing, at about £100 (pattern) or £200 (genuine).
