CORROSION CONCERNS
These cars could rust when they were just a few years old, so it wasn’t long before anti-corrosion warranties were terminally breached. They’re certainly no better today, so you’ll need to check every last inch of the panels, concentrating on the bottoms of the doors, the edges of the front wings, the wheelarches, and the extremities of the bonnet and boot lid. The windscreen pillars go as well, and major bubbling here probably indicates a car that’s beyond saving. Finding replacement panels, bumpers, and exterior trim will mean a trawl for secondhand parts, so you’ll need to be patient if you’re considering taking on a project.
CHECK THE ENGINE’S HEALTH
The 1.3-litre Honda engine is a reliable performer but check that cambelt changes haven’t been neglected. The engine is all-alloy, so make sure that anti-freeze levels have been maintained – look for murky coolant that could signal internal corrosion. The Austin-Rover S-series engine used in the 216 isn’t quite as robust and can suffer from noisy tappets, oil leaks from the top end, and cylinder head gasket failure. The poor design of the engine breather system also allows condensation to build up, so look for ‘mayonnaise’ building up under the oil filler cap.
STRAIGHTFORWARD RUNNING GEAR
The Rover’s steering, brakes and suspension are all thoroughly conventional: any problems that arise are usually the result either of neglect or general wear and tear. Be wary of seized and corroded brakes on cars that have barely moved, though. Consumables such as brake pads, discs and ball joints are available quite cheaply, with the internet proving a good source of bits, though it’s worth grabbing them when they appear. Age and rarity mean it’s inevitable you’ll struggle to find some components, though, so you may be reliant on unearthing new/old stock or secondhand bits – which is worth bearing in mind be
