coast TRAVEL
For fabuous beaches where wooded hills and rocky cliffs meet the wild Atlantic Ocean, North Devon is up there with the best of them
1. BEST FOR: VICTORIANA SEASIDE TUNNELS BEACHES, ILFRACOMBE
Why here? In 1820, four tunnels were hand-carved into the rocks in Ilfracombe to enable horse-drawn bathing huts to whisk bathers down to the sea. The tunnels are still one of this seaside town’s biggest attractions, revealing sheltered beaches, perfect for picnicking on, and a unique tidal pool for those that wish to dip. Visit during low tide and glimpse an underwater treasure trove of crabs, fish, strawberry anemones and rare sea coral – up above you may spy seals, porpoises and nesting peregrine falcons.
Facilities: The tunnels are wheelchair- and pushchair-friendly and there are toilets and babychanging facilities on site. An adult day ticket costs £3 and it’s £2.50 for children. Coves can cut off quickly so check tide times before visiting (tunnelsbeaches.co.uk).
Where to stay: Ocean Backpackers is an award-winning hostel based near Ilfracombe harbour, the perfect base for exploring the North Devon coast if you’re on a budget. Prices for a double room start from £66 per night, based on two sharing (oceanbackpackers.co.uk).
2. BEST FOR: EXOTIC SHELLS AND CURRY NIGHTS BARRICANE BEACH
Why here? This tiny, secluded beach, framed by rocky outcrops, is totally submerged at high water, making it all the more appealing to visit when the tide goes out. Sited at the far north of Woolacombe it’s an ideal spot to land with a book and a coffee if you want to escape the buzz of Devon’s bigger beaches – or to catch a dreamy sunset with a glass of white. Also known as Combesgate Beach, Barricane gets it names from its faraway foundations – the beach is made up of tiny shell particles that are said to have arrived from the shores of the Caribbean via the Gulf Stream. Children will love the wealth of marine life – visible in thriving rockpools where mussels, limpets and sea hares make their pop-up homes – and have fun seeking out fossils between the seawhipped layers of Morte Slate cliff.
Facilities: The Barricane Beach Café’s Sri Lankan curry nights are 3 the stuff of local legend, running most evenings throughout summer. By day, the café serves up cakes, hot drinks and a lunch menu of sandwiches and soups (see Facebook). There’s car parking at the esplanade above the beach but the nearest public toilets are further south at Woolacombe.
Where to stay: Bag a sea-facing room at the Watersmeet Hotel, perched just above Barricane Beach. An indoor and outdoor spa plus terrace dining means that you’ll be
