A magnificent seven

11 min read

coast TRAVEL

Think coast and you don’t always imagine cities, but we have some amazing ones to visit close to the shoreline, as CHRISSY HARRIS discovers

PHOTOGRAPH SUMMIT IMAGERY LTD
PHOTOGRAPH PLYMOUTH’S ROYAL WILLIAM YARD JAY STONE; VISIT PLYMOUTH PLYMOUTH’S ROYAL WILLIAM YARD FELIX MOONEERAM

1 PLYMOUTH Not many cities in the world boast a view like Plymouth’s. You can be deep in retail therapy in the shopping centre one minute and then enjoying panoramic seascapes across The Sound the next, Ivor Dewdney’s pasty in hand (recommended).

This is a fascinating city, full of maritime history and wonder with a strong connection to its military roots.

And it’s finally starting to realise it. After years in the shadows as a post-war rebuilt, not very pretty-looking city, Plymouth has embraced its rather incredible attributes. The Hoe, Smeaton’s Tower lighthouse, an Art Deco lido, marinas, loads of waterfront locations and close proximity to Devon’s coast and countryside make this city a dream destination.

It’s more alive now than it’s ever been, with more and more people choosing to holiday here, rather than use it as a stopping off place on the way down to Cornwall.

The Barbican is the place to start. Cobbled streets and quirky cafes and shops lead out to the famous Mayflower Steps, close to the spot where the Pilgrim Fathers set sail for America in 1620.

You can set sail for slightly less far-flung destinations from the nearby Barbican Landing Stage. Plymouth Boat Trips run a Harbour Cruise, passing Drake’s Island, Mount Edgcumbe in adjacent Cornwall and Royal William Yard (see panel) before pulling into one of the largest naval dockyards in Western Europe.

Make sure you find time to hang out in Royal William Yard, a collection of beautifully restored Grade I-listed buildings, once a Royal Navy victualling yard and now home to bars, restaurants, galleries, shops, hotels and apartments.

Explore Sutton Harbour for lively restaurants, bars and a spot of yacht envy. There are some completely unattainable beauties here.

Ebrington Street is another cool hang-out for good coffee and independent shops.

Then it’s back up onto The Hoe and that view. Tis ’ansome.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK On the waterfront, Supha’s street food emporium (Marrowbone Slip) is Pan-Asian-style food in a great location. Harbourside fish and chips (Southside Street) is among the best of its kind.

• At Royal William Yard, try freshly caught seafood at The Hook & Line (you can even go out on its fishing boats and cook your catch). For a glass of something special and continental tapas, head to Le Vignoble and finish with handmade chocolates from Domea Favour.

• For some proper Plymouth charm (and characters to match) head to The Dolphin Hotel (The Barbican) or the Minerva Inn (Looe S