SUE CADE travels to the western edge of Cornwall to explore out of season adventures that don’t cost the earth
Swimming outdoors in all weathers has become something of a trend, but I’ve never been an enthusiast. So it’s a challenge to take the plunge at the Jubilee Pool in Penzance on a freezing December day and a surprise to discover I’m enjoying myself.
There’s a significant addendum to my joy as the water in the saltwater pool is geothermally heated and while the pool crew are apologetic that the temperature is only 28°C rather than the usual 35, it’s plenty warm enough for me.
My friendly fellow bathers say they love their regular swims and one casually mentions she’d rather be in the adjoining unheated sea water lido but has chosen the more temperate option as she’s brought her children with her.
Getting dressed in the basic changing rooms is a bit nippy, but there’s a reward on hand at the Jubilee Pool Café which serves a fine array of hot drinks and tasty cakes and an impressive lunch menu packed with tasty dishes including a warming homemade soup, all of which help the goosebumps recede.
Just five miles east of Penzance is Marazion overlooking the instantly recognisable St Michael’s Mount. Our base for the weekend is The Godolphin and its enviable location right on the beach. It’s our good fortune to arrive at the same time as a breathtaking sunset, made even more memorable by the sight of intrepid gig rowers and a glass of local Polgoon fizz.
The hotel is ideal for an out of season visit; a welcoming bar offering treats, substantial breakfasts to set you up for the day, and delightful extras such as chocolate brownies in the minibar.
The Godolphin is owned by the St Aubyn family who live in a castle opposite on the Mount, part of which was given to the National Trust in 1954. It’s possible to walk from one to the other across an ancient, cobbled causeway during low tide and from April to October there’s a ferryboat.
Tide times aren’t in our favour, so we walk as far as we can along the causeway as it grows dark while the sea splashes around us and St Michael’s Mount turns purple – this is a regular occurrence through the year as the Mount lights up in various colours to raise awareness for special causes.
There are plenty of excellent eateries on this coastline. Just a short taxi ride from the hotel is The Mexico Inn, a bustling, family-friendly restaurant that boasts a varied menu showcasing local produce and the most generous portions. The restaurant is bustling with large groups starting festive celebrations so we take up the offer of dining from a sofa by the wood burner, the perfect spot for a chilly evening.
