coast DISCOVERY
SUSIE KEARLEY visits a fascinating deserted island on the Suffolk coast
Orford Ness is a large shingle spit in Suffolk, mostly cut off from the mainland by the River Alde. It used to be a military base but today it’s owned by the National Trust and is open to visitors from Easter to October. It’s a fascinating place to visit because of its secret history, remarkable wildlife, and unusual military buildings.
Between 1913 and 1973 Orford Ness was a top secret military research facility operated by the War Department.
In 1962, the War Department land was sold to the UK Atomic Energy Authority. Testing began on the components for atomic bombs to improve targeting and measure the environmental impact of radiation. They also used the Ness as a research hub for radar defence and navigation.
In 1954 the beach was leased to the RSPB and became a nature reserve. In 1971, the Natural Environment Research Council purchased the site to preserve it as a nature reserve. The same year, the Ministry of Defence took over the weapons testing buildings. The RAF bomb disposal squad stayed on site until 1987 - they were the last to leave.
CATCH THE FERRY
In 1993, Orford Ness was purchased by the National Trust and today it’s open to visitors at weekends from April to October, with extra open days in July and August. Visitors catch the ferry from Orford Quay to Orford Ness, where a truly unique nature reserve is found alongside fascinating military remains.
As you disembark from the ferry, long grasses and streams line the path to an old MoD hut containing an exhibition. Inside, you’ll learn about the wildlife, military history, and its 18th century use for animal grazing, fishing, and smuggling. The exhibition explores the lives of people who lived and worked on Orford Ness in the early 20th century, before the military took over and the research staff moved in.
RARE SIGHTS
The nature reserve on Orford Ness provides a range of different habitats for wildlife, with wetlands, reedbeds and a shingle beach. Wading birds and rare species have made it their home, and you might see oystercatchers, lapwings, little terns, marsh harriers or bearded tits. Its remote location means there are few visitors, making it an attractive environment for wildlife.
SECRET SPOT
The Black Beacon, designed to house an experimental rotating loop navigation beacon for military aircraft, today houses an exhibition about the top secret activities at Orford Ness, including a 1970s radar project called Cobra Mist. It was so secret that the military pretended it was just part of the ionospheric radio research station located there.
