From reviving wilderness walks to Thames barge sailing trips and locally produced wines, Essex’s little-known Dengie Peninsula and Blackwater Estuary is ripe for exploration, discovers
Sheltered by undulating agricultural land, the Dengie Peninsula feels undiscovered and intriguing. With Maldon to the north and Burnhamon-Crouch to the south, this isn’t a beachy kind of place but there’s plenty for coast-lovers to enjoy nevertheless. For instance, there are peaceful walks and birdwatching opportunities out on the saltmarshes – the area is known as the Saltmarsh Coast; there’s good sailing to be had on the estuarial Rivers Crouch and Blackwater; plus a fine crop of vineyards to explore in a place that specialises in cool climate viticulture.
There’s history too. The Romans occupied the peninsula until well into the 400s, while in 653 the wonderfully named St Cedd travelled from Lindisfarne to preach the Gospel. He ordered a church to be built and St Peter-on-the-Wall still stands today in Bradwell-on-Sea, featuring bricks and stones taken from an old Roman fort.
ESSEX WINES
The first stop on our weekend pilgrimage, however, is a more recent phenomenon, centred on the Crouch Valley. The area is a sweet spot for growing pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris grapes.
New Hall Wine Estate was the first to set up in 1969 and is now joined by 22 others, including Clayhill Vineyard run by Dale and Victoria Symons. We pop in for elevenses at their Coffee & Cake cafe and bag a table on the upstairs balcony. We take in the stupendous views over Dale’s 20 acres of vines and the glinting River Crouch beyond – we could be in France or Portugal. (Vineyard tours and tastings available. Facebook Clayhill Vineyard)
Our next stop on the wine trail is Crouch Ridge vineyard for a wine tasting. Suitably bubbly, head sommelier Laura-Jamie welcomes us on the terrace and teaches us how to taste: look at the colour, smell deeply, then swirl and slurp to tantalise the tastebuds.
We try an oaked chardonnay (apple-y and crisp), a rosé (summer berries) and a light red (smoke and sour cherries), afterwards ordering carb-rich moules marinière with chips (£15.95). (Vineyard tour and tasting, £35 per person, crouchridge.com)
QUAYWARDS BOUND
It’s early afternoon and we head over to Burnham-on-Crouch, a yachty haven which holds Burnham Week regatta at the end of August. It’s a small place and we zip down to the riverside to see the famous Royal Corinthian Yacht Club, a Modernist gem designed by Joseph Emberton in 1931.
