STEVE NEWMAN reveals why there is so much to enjoy on England’s most north-easterly coast
The Northumberland coast has only recently become a major part of the tourist trail, which is surprising as its beaches - stretching for miles under open skies with castles clinging on the cliff tops by their fingernails - are some of the finest anywhere in the world.
Nationally important in terms of the long stretches of sand dunes that separate the land from the sea and the incredible offshore wildlife of dolphins and hundreds of thousands of seabirds, there is so much to discover here, no matter what your age or interest.
The Holy Island of Lindisfarne, for example - which the sea condescendingly offers access to twice a day - is a magical place but it also offers great danger and you must be aware of the safe crossing times before you attempt to visit. You can drive across, but many people walk in the footstep of the saints and pilgrims by crossing the sands.
“It’s a magical experience, especially at sunset.” says Patrick Norris who with his Footsteps company (footstepsnorthumberland.co.uk) runs organised tours across the sands “However, I wouldn’t advise anyone to attempt it on their own unless they know exactly what they’re doing.”
On this coastline there are far more suitable beaches than safe ports so the traditional fishing coble evolved to operate from the shore rather than harbours. Its origins are said to lie in the Viking longboat and it’s not difficult to see why. You can still see them today at Amble, Boulmer and Craster, harvesting salmon and lobsters as they have done for centuries.
The 39 miles from Amble to Berwickupon-Tweed is a designated Area of Outstanding National Beauty and you can walk the whole stretch by following the England Coast Path. Why not get the double decker X18 bus that follows the entire length even calling at Holy Island when the tides are right? With miles of quiet country lanes and traffic free cycle routes and bridleways you really can get away from people in such a short time.
The spectacular sea bird colonies are at their peak from early spring to mid-summer when the birds leave on their annual migration, the seal pups appear in October whilst the dolphins are here all year round. The AONB produce a great website with lots of ideas: northumberlandcoastaonb.org
If you want to get close to the coastal wildlife then try a couple of hours with Ranger Jane’s Beach School at Seahouses (rangerjane.co.uk) exploring the rock pools with your net and bucket. It’s great fun for families and children of all ages from seven to 70! Plus you’re helping conservation by monitoring the species you find.
The more industrial southern coast should not be forgotten however as Newbiggin has a lovely beach, an excellent visitor and wildlife centre, plus one the biggest working coble fleets. It’s also famous for it
