It would be scilly not to visit…

13 min read

coast TRAVEL

ANDY COOPER explores the glorious set of islands off the west coast of the UK…and offers some handy advice for those considering a first-time trip

The Karma Hotel makes the most of its amazing location.
PHOTO: KAMRA HOTEL

Istill recall, some 20 years on, my first visit to the Isles of Scilly. As well as a sense of wonder at the beauty of the islands, there was also a certain feeling of trepidation as I made my way there. Which, for a relatively experienced world traveller, sounds a little strange. But bear with me while I explain, as I am sure my slight sense of caution is not unique to me.

Although this beautiful archipelago is just 28 miles off the coast of Cornwall, to does seem more remote and mysterious than say, a trip from Exeter to Seaton is. It’s that sense of not quite knowing what the accommodation and inter-island transport arrangements might be ‘across the water’ which, I fear, puts some people off travelling for the first time. Also, I know some folks of my acquaintance have also queried, ‘Yes, but what do we actually DO when over there?’

To which my short, somewhat flip, answer would be do as much or as little as you like. If you’re an adventurer there’s plenty for you, but equally if you’re an armchair watcher of the world going by then you’ll be in your element.

But first, those elements of mystery. And the truth is, there is nothing simpler than taking a trip to the Isles of Scilly – and getting around when you’re there. And there are so many options these beautiful but varied islands can offer. You can base yourself on a single island and never leave for the duration of your stay. You can use your island as a base for exploring others. Or you can spend an extended period over there and islandhop to your heart’s content.

Reader, that is what I have just done on a seven-day, five-island jaunt to one of the most magical coastal spots in the UK if not, dare I say it, the world. And in completing my visit, I have hopefully garnered enough insight and experience to help you choose how and where you visit those oh-so-special Isles of Scilly.

And I recommend you take your own trip too and encounter some of the fascinating places and talented people that made my visit so memorable. Here’s my inter-island guide, which hopefully gives you plenty of ideas and help for when you make a visit:

The Scillonian III docked in St Mary’s harbour
PHOTOGRAPHS: ST MARY’S: ANDY COOPER
Tregarthen’s Hotel is a lovely location for an island base
TREGARTHEN’S HOTEL: TREGARTHEN’S HOTEL

ST MARY’S

Not for nothing is St Mary’s known as the administrative capital of Scilly. The main transport hub for the islands, in most cases when you travel, it will be where your visit starts and finishes. In our case we found ourselves landing at the harbour, rather than