Once a town synonymous with retirees, Eastbourne has reinvented itself as a vibrant cultural hub with a thriving art scene that’s being taken very seriously, discovers
With a former reputation as a place to go and live your final days, Eastbourne’s time-worn image as ‘God’s waiting room’ has evolved into something rather more hipster these days.
The swathe of artisan cafes, restaurants, shops and creative collaborations that have launched here in recent years mean this once faded town is quickly giving Brighton a run for its money among a new generation of 30- and 40-somethings (believe it or not, the average age of the population here is 42). They also make a visit to this once sleepy town all the more enticing. Indeed, in 2023 Eastbourne topped the Time Out list of best places to visit for an overnight trip in the UK.
Whether you’re travelling from London, Gatwick or further along the coastline, getting to Eastbourne by rail is easy but if arriving by car, as we were, then it’s well worth stopping off at Beachy Head en route for a bird’s eye view of the town.
Many people cycle the steep hill from Eastbourne (beware, the climb is not for the faint-hearted) and are rewarded at the top with breathtaking vistas and tantalising sustenance on offer at Cadence Cycle Club (cadencecycle.club), a growing network of clubhouses stretching across the South Downs with a mission to create destinations where cyclists can refuel and connect.
This area of coastline is part of the Shoreham-by-Sea to Eastbourne section of the King Charles III England Coast Path, a new walking route that will follow the entire coast of England and, when complete, will be the longest coastal path in the world at approximately 2,700 miles.
VIBRANT TOWN€
Before we head into the centre of Eastbourne, we pop to Holywell Retreat, the beach almost directly below Beachy Head. This quaint little enclave boasts beach huts, plenty of rock pools and the Holywell Tea Chalet.
From April to September, you can get The Dotto land train from here to the centre of Eastbourne (a great option if you’ve kids in tow) but we decide to take a walk along the quiet stretch of pebbled beach (we barely see a soul) and then up through the secluded Italian Gardens, which sit hidden away in a wooded amphitheatre carved out of the cliff face, towards Eastbourne’s main promenade.
Here, we are somewhat taken aback
