ANDY COOPER heads to a coastal corner of Wales and comes away impressed with the experience
I think I must have last visited Pembrokeshire nearly 50 years ago which is a slightly bizarre statistic, given that I have lived around 50-70 miles south of the region for the past 30+ years.
But, of course, standing ‘in the way’ is the small matter of the Bristol Channel, meaning one can’t just ‘pop’ to west Wales. So when the invite came from Visit Pembrokeshire to come and stay, it was time to update my travelling CV.
Our first stop-off having completed the long drive from home in Devon was at the rather wonderful Llys Meddyg Hotel, nestled under Carningli (Mountain of the Angels) on the Nevern estuary, within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.
Founded in 2003 by Ed and Louise Sykes, Llys Meddyg Hotel (llysmeddyg.com) is situated in a Georgian townhouse which offers just eight rooms with elegant furnishings including touches such as Welsh blankets, Conscious skincare products and artwork by some of Wales’ most celebrated creatives.
The menu at Llys Meddyg champions foraged ingredients from Welsh shores, hedgerows and the hotel’s own kitchen garden alongside seasonal fresh ingredients from passionate local producers. Guests can book on a foraging experience with Ed.
Certainly when we dined in the atmospheric Cellar Bar, starting with a relaxing cocktail at the funky bar, it was a night to remember, for both the quality of the food – and the attentive service from the team. Rooms are from £150 for bed and breakfast per couple.
After a lovely breakfast in the morning, we were tempted to try and burn off some of the calories by setting off on an adventure cycle courtesy of the e-bikes which the hotel can offer, via sister company Hidden Routes (hiddenroutes.co.uk/). Taster sessions cost £30 for a 90-minute ride.
As it was, we had a small excuse not to jump on the bikes as our agenda for our first full day had us planning lots of stop-offs The first of these was Lower Town Fishguard, a picturesque village with a cluster of quayside cottages and which was once an important trading port. It was also the location for Dylan Thomas’s most famous play Under Milk Wood. An utterly charming spot.
Next was fascinating Melin Tregwynt woollen mill, renowned for Welsh woollen blankets and throws. You can watch the mill in action, visit the shop and there’s also a cafe using local produce. melintregwynt.co.uk/
From there I would suggest you head for the historic and atmospheric coastal village of Porthgain, which was once a harbour exporting stone and slate from a nearby quarr
