FOOD & GARDENING
In our ongoing series from her cottage garden in the grounds of Highclere Castle, TV chef Clodagh McKenna cooks up a storm for an alfresco soirée
It takes more than a bit of cloud to stop chef and television presenter Clodagh McKenna from entertaining outdoors at this time of year: “Even on a dull day, the light shining through autumn leaves is like sitting beneath a canopy of gold. And if you’re lucky enough to get one of those hazy days, well, there’s nothing better. It’s so beautiful.”
Autumn is Clodagh’s favourite time of year at Broadspear, the home she shares with husband Harry in the grounds of Highclere Castle. She loves the colours, from the coppery tones of the orchard to the vibrant hues of dahlias in the cutting garden. But, most of all, she loves the bountiful supply of produce in her walled vegetable garden. “Growing vegetables has been a steep learning curve for me over the past six years, but seeing how a small seed I planted back in spring has turned into a gigantic pumpkin is so satisfying,” she says.
But it’s not just super-sized pumpkins: each raised bed offers a bumper harvest of its own. The browning husks of sweetcorn indicate they’re ready for Clodagh to drop them on the barbecue and enjoy with a bit of butter, while the dark green leaves of the curly and Tuscan kales that have taken up space all summer are now earning their keep. Along the old garden walls, red-, white- and blackcurrants dangle like jewels, while the greenhouse is a jungle of grapes, ripe tomatoes and chillies that have spent months building up their heat. Fortunately, Clodagh’s enthusiasm for entertaining means friends and family are more than happy to help make a dent in this seasonal glut. Her autumnal gatherings take place in woodland just beyond the walled vegetable garden. Clodagh sets up a long wooden table, simply decorated with vines and foliage, in her favourite spot beneath an old lime tree: “This is a very special place for me as Harry proposed beneath this tree, and we then held our wedding reception in these woods.” To ward off the evening chill, Clodagh piles chairs with blankets and cushions and lights a big firepit. “Cosiness is key,” she explains. “If you’re eating outside at this time of year, every course needs to be warming. You want hearty food that feels like a big hug.” Guests are served soups made with root vegetables from her garden – curried parsnip and chunky minestrones – in mugs that keep hands warm. Meanwhile, a chilli or stew gently simmers in a large pan suspended over the fire. Clodag
