Summer is served

10 min read
 
Julius Roberts shares more of his farm-to-fork recipes – this month inspired by the most plentiful of seasons
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ELENA HEATHERWICK

NECTARINE, MOZZARELLA AND BASIL

The beauty of this dish lies in its simplicity and it all boils down to the quality of one ingredient – the nectarines. The difference between a ripe nectarine and an unripe one is stark. Biting into a ripe nectarine is nothing short of sheer joy: it should burst with juice, balanced by a gentle acidity, and have the most glorious texture. It should not crunch. Buy a few more than you need for the recipe and try one – if they’re not quite ready, just wait a few days. When you’ve got an ingredient this good, it’s all about keeping it simple and I can’t think of much better on a searingly hot day than this salad. Basil used like lettuce in vast quantities, the sweet nectarine singing with vinegar, the fatty luxuriousness of mozzarella and the gentle spice of rocket and nasturtium. It’s a harmony of flavour and utter bliss. Ideal as a light lunch in the heat with some good bread and prosciutto.

4 PERFECTLY RIPE NECTARINES

4 BALLS OF GREAT MOZZARELLA

A LARGE BUNCH OF FRESH BASIL, LEAVES PICKED

A SMALL HANDFUL OF SPICY LEAVES – ROCKET,

NASTURTIUM FLOWERS OR JAPANESE MUSTARDS

½ LEMON A GENEROUS GLUG OF OLIVE OIL, ABOUT 3 TBSP 1-2 TBSP REALLY LIGHT AND

FRUITY VINEGAR (I LIKE MOSCATEL OR THE BELAZU FIG LEAF VINEGAR, WHICH IS NICHE BUT INCREDIBLE, OR ANY QUALITY VINEGAR YOU HAVE TO HAND)

1 Cut the nectarines in half around the stone, following the groove of the fruit. Twist each half and they should easily come away, as should the stone. If this is difficult, it’s a sign they’re not quite ripe. Cut the nectarine halves into jaunty chunks and place in a bowl, then tear in the mozzarella. Add the basil, spicy leaves, alittle squeeze of lemon juice, a glug of olive oil and a splash of vinegar. With such delicate flavours, don’t drown this lovely salad in a throat-stripping vinegar. With simple food, the quality of your ingredients is ever more important. Go gently and find the perfect balance.

2 Season well with salt and pepper, then gently toss the salad a few times to distribute the dressing. Have a taste, get that perfect mouthful of basil, nectarine and mozzarella, and adjust the seasoning as necessary. Serve immediately – this does not want to hang around.

COURGETTE PASTA WITH MASCARPONE, BASIL & LEMON

Homegrown courgettes cooking in a puddle of good olive oil with garlic, lemon and chilli is a combination that sings of summer to me. I make this almost every day from June to September, to be stirred through risotto, served next to apiece of fish, on toast with burrata or with my eggs in the morning. But my personal favourite is tossed through pasta with mascarpone, fresh basil and lemon. It’s sh

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