DESTINATION
All of France’s great cols are unique, but Ventoux is uniquely unique. Unlike the jostling Alpine passes, it towers over Provence, alone. The 6,272ft (1,912m) summit is plainly visible for miles around. The unfamiliar scale can make it look close enough to touch; easy, even. Don’t be fooled.
Ventoux attracts stories like no other, whether light-hearted (it’s been climbed on a Raleigh Chopper, and a London hire bike within the 24-hour rental period) or tragic (Tom Simpson’s exhausted death in the 1967 Tour de France). It’s a bucket-list bag, the headline attraction of many a tour company. But you can DIY it of course. There are three bases for cycling Ventoux. Some energetic riders do all three tarmac ways up in one, mammoth, go (there’s also a fourth gravel route). Malaucène (21km, 1,580m ascent, average 7.2%) offers a cycle lane, but the busiest road. Sault is the easiest and quietest (26km, 1,150m, 4.5%). Bédoin is the usual choice of the Tour and of road cyclists (21km, 1,600m, 7.6%).
The theatrical final few km from Chalet Reynard to the summit are what you see in magazine spreads. They take you past the Simpson memorial and up grinding hairpins to the disused weather tower (and snack bar) at the top. Enjoy satellite-like panoramas as you queue for your summit selfie, down over Provence’s lush farmlands, and even to the Alps. From Bédoin to the summit in under two hours is decent; 90 minutes, very good; an hour, top-pro. It’ll be ferociously windy up there and beware of tourist cars and campervans when riding.
Big dates
The highest roads are open from mid-April to mid-November. Midsummer is challengingly hot (and rooms are at their priciest) though mid-June to mid-July the lavender fields are at their best. May and either side, or September/October are the comfiest cycling times; you’ll also enjoy Provence’s spring blooms or autumn colours. Tour operators run frequent trips through the year. There are many local and international events (such as the CIC Mont Ventoux in June or Haute Route Ventoux in October). Ventoux was last in the Tour de France in 2021.
Don’t miss
The Tom Simpson memorial; summit panoramas and selfies; various MTB options on and around Ventoux; car-free family rides; lavender fields in summer (there’s a 33km circular bike route round Sault); Provence’s local food markets (especially Carpentras on Fridays); wine culture (Châteauneuf-du-Pape is close by).
Travel
It’s a 10-12-hour drive from
