From ancient stones to timeless biker hospitality, Saff rides north to taste the true spirit of Orkney

A couple of years ago, I heard about a seaside campsite bordered by sand dunes and a beach beloved by seals. It has been on my mind ever since, but as we’re not really keen on just sitting on the beac

‘Believe it or not this was my first audax. I’ve been eyeing PBP [Paris-Brest-Paris, 1,200km] for decades but you have to do a series of audaxes to qualify, and there aren’t any organised audaxes in M

THE ORKNEYS

I’m awake. Very awake. It’s early on a wind-whipped Sunday morning and I’m neck-deep in the sea off the Isle of Man’s north-east coast. The rain is steady, the swell is heavy and the water is gaspindu

In 1974, I hitchhiked with my girlfriend Lesley from John o’Groats to Land’s End in 10 days. After 46 years of happy marriage, Lesley died from breast cancer in October 2022. Losing the love of my lif