The headline act of this year’s Giro d’Italia is a double ascent of the mighty Monte Grappa. As Cyclist discovers, it’s a climb steeped in both pain and glory
Words Will Strickson Photography Juan Trujillo Andrades
Big Ride: Monte Grappa
Professional cycling has long been dominated by talk of ‘attacks’, ‘battles’, ‘pain’ and ‘suffering’, and there’s a place in northern Italy where they have experienced their share of all those things in both bike races and wars. Bassano del Grappa’s bloody history isn’t hidden from view. Just walking around the town you’ll notice the bullet holes from two World Wars that still cover the buildings next to the Ponte Vecchio, and when you look up you’ll see the hulking mass that serves as a reminder of battles past and, if you’re in town for a ride, of suffering to come: Monte Grappa.
I don’t need the mountain to remind me of what I’ve signed up for. Starting today’s ride at the headquarters of Basso Bikes, just outside of Bassano, I’m told by several members of the team that I’m in for a tough day in the saddle. Perhaps the most telling revelation is that, despite living and working at the foot of one of the world’s most famous climbs, they each only ride up it fewer than a handful of times a year.
My ride partner for today is Asja Paladin, a former pro road racer and current Basso employee. Her sister is Canyon-Sram’s Soraya Paladin and her boyfriend is Jacopo Lahbi, the man who during Covid took on all ten road routes up Monte Grappa in one ride – that’s 455km, 16,500m of elevation and 41 hours on the bike. So it’s safe to say I’ve got the perfect guide for my own attempt.
Our plan is to replicate the ascent of Monte Grappa that will feature in the penultimate stage of this year’s Giro d’Italia, starting from Semonzo at the southern foot of the mountain and returning to Bassano del Grappa where the race will end. The pros will have to do the climb twice on the stage. For us, I’m sure once will be more than enough.
The easy part
The first part of the ride is gentle and flat, giving Asja and I just enough time to get our legs spinning before we reach our first stop after 11km in the cobbled square of Asolo for coffees and cornettos. When the Giro comes to town the peloton will head to Semonzo straight down the main road, which isn’t the nicest ride when you don’t have the luxury of closed roads, so Asja takes us slightly off-piste, including a short gravel road and a tight brook-side footpath. I’ll take that
