Joy’s 12 to try from the vanguard of regenerative viticulture

3 min read

REGENERATIVE VITICULTURE

A selection of wines from leading producers who follow regenerative principles: some are certified regenerative, but most are not

1 Chêne Bleu, Aliot, Rhône, France 2015 96

£43.45-£53.37 Arden Fine Wines, Justerini & Brooks, Vinvm, Wine Monkey Wonderfully rich, characterful blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Viognier from the Rolets’ Ecocert-certified organic Vaucluse vineyards. Gorgeously oxidative, honeyed nose of dried apricots, walnuts and rose petals. Complex, fresh and tangy, notes of quince and garrigue honey. Lovely freshness and terrific length. Drink 2023-2027 Alcohol 14%

2 Domaine Belargus, Ronceray, Anjou, Loire, France 2020 96

£37-£44 Millésima, Shrine to the Vine, Vin Cognito From Massonnat’s biodynamic vineyards in Anjou. Enticing nose of citrus and honey, then a rich, saline grip in the mouth and an attractive touch of bitterness. Taut and focused, with a sense of restrained energy and mineral drive. Vibrant and very intense, with lovely finesse. Very fine, should unfurl beautifully. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13.5%

Tablas Creek, Esprit Blanc de Tablas, Adelaida District, Paso Robles, California, USA 2019 94

£51.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Liberty Wines Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul Blanc and Picardan blend from Tablas Creek’s Regenerative Organic Certified vineyards. A delicate floral nose leads to a rich, mineral mouthful of citrus and honeysuckle with hints of pineapple. Complex, pure and creamy in texture, bright acidity and a lifted, airy quality. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13%

Reyneke, Biodynamic Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2021 93

£15.83 (ib)-£21.99 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Cru, Harrogate Wines, The Surrey Wine Cellar From Reyneke’s Demeter-certified vineyards in Stellenbosch. Intense nose of lime and green tea. Expressive, sweet attack in the mouth, bursting with fresh citrus and greengage. Harmonious and moreish with vibrant ripe fruit. Excellent freshness and drive, with great persistence. Drink 2023-2028 Alc 13.5%

3 Château de Galoupet, Rosé, Côtes de Provence, France 2021 94

£44-£53.33 Berry Bros & Rudd, Clos19, Hedonism, Fine Wine Direct, Millésima, The Champagne Co, The Finest Bubble Cru classé blend of Grenache, Syrah, Tibouren, Rolle, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Semillon and Cabernet from Galoupet’s vineyard in Provence, currently in organic conversion. Delicate salmon pink, with an engaging citrus nose. Very polished and well textured. Rich and creamy with a touch of refreshing bitterness. Lovely strawberry intensity and notes of ginger, lime and grapefruit. Drink 2023-2027 Alc 14%

Chêne Bleu, Le Rosé, Rhône, France 2021 93

£20.35-£27.95 Arden Fine Wines, Hedonism, Justerini & Brooks, Vinvm, Wine Direct, Wine Monkey Blend of Grenache, Syrah, Rolle, Cinsault and Mou