SOUTHERN FRANCE
Decanter’s Regional Editor for Languedoc has spent a lot of time in the southern French wine region over the past year, and has been bowled over by the quality on offer. Here she gives us 10 of many good reasons to look at its terroirs, estates and wines through fresh eyes
A region as vast and geographically complicated as Languedoc is difficult, if not impossible, to generalise about.
With so many appellations, topographies, microclimates, grape varieties and terroirs, it’s more than just the sum of its parts. Languedoc has moved into a new era, extending beyond the tropes of ‘great value’ and ‘rustic, hearty reds’. Now is the time to discover the cutting edge of what’s happening in this region. Run, don’t walk, to snap up the exciting wines of Languedoc.
1 Whites
Most famous for its reds, Languedoc’s white wines may surprise, in that they are becoming a real source of freshness, intrigue and deliciousness. There are still vast plantings of international varieties such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in the region, but it’s the local varieties that make the most complex and interesting wines. Carignan Blanc and (the rare) Gris, Grenache Blanc and Gris, Terret, Bourboulenc, Rolle, Mauzac and Clairette are being used to great effect in blends, alongside adopted varieties such as Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier and Chenin Blanc.
Some producers are honing in on single-variety styles, and when sourced from old vines this can work very well, giving great concentration and varietal definition. There’s one appellation that’s dedicated solely to the production of dry whites, Picpoul de Pinet, which since its ascension to appellation status in 2013 has become a huge commercial success.
Other whites of the Languedoc region look set to follow suit. Sometimes it’s an entire appellation that impresses, while at others it’s more about individual producers. The whites of La Clape – classy, saline and fresh – have risen in profile as a success thanks to signature variety Bourboulenc’s racy acidity; look out for those from Sarrat de Goundy (bottle pictured, far left) and Château Rouquette sur Mer. Terrasses du Larzac, where white varieties thrive in Languedoc’s cooler reaches, is working on plans to have its appellation regulations updated in order to include white wines. Check out producers Domaine Le Clos du Serres, Les Vignes Oubliées and Mas Cal Demoura for some seriously aromatically complex whites. I’ve been impressed by some white Corbières, but here you do have to know your producers: don’t miss the elegant La Bégou from Maxime Magnon (2021, £38 Roberson), and the whites from Château La Baronne and Pierre Bories.
