Spain’s answer to white Burgundy? Its more passionate advocates like to argue so. For alongtimelost inanoceanof nondescript Cava, Xarel. lo is now emerging as one of Spain’s most lauded native white grapes
Like many Mediterranean countries, Spain tends to eschew international grape varieties in favour of its vast wealth of indigenous plantings. Precise numbers are hard to pin down across its many regions, but Spain’s register of commercial vine varieties (Colección de Variedades de Vid) near Madrid records some 235 distinct varieties planted, of which about 15 are table grapes. According to the most recent data from OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine), 88% of total production comes from a mere 20 varieties, with Tempranillo and Airén together accounting for more than 40% of total plantings – much Airén is destined for the production of Brandy de Jerez in the far south.
However, it’s so often true that some of the grapes flying beneath the radar offer a more detailed glimpse into the individuality of Spain and its varied regions – in some cases offering extraordinary value in the process. One of the best examples of this is the white grape Xarel.lo. Native to Catalonia on Spain’s northeast coast, Xarel.lo is best known for its role in Cava production, contributing much of the natural acidity, structure and crisp, green and subtly herbal flavours to Cava wines. Indeed, many of the greatest producers of sparkling wines in Catalonia are focusing on Xarel.lo as the flagship grape of their top cuvées.
Yet despite this, according to DO Catalunya figures, in 2023 just 7,100ha of Xarel.lo was being grown in the Catalonia region, accounting for a mere 0.73% of Spain’s total plantings.
The grape is found all across Catalonia in a variety of regions and microclimates: to the north of Barcelona in the tiny Alella DO, it’s known as Pansa Blanca, while in Tarragona to the south it’s called Cartoixà. Beyond the region, too, the variety is performing well on the island of Mallorca, where it’s known as Premsal Blanc.
PERFECT FOR PENEDES
Every grape seems to find a spiritual home, however, and it would be hard to deny that the Penedès region is exactly that for Xarel.lo. As Roc Gramona (pictured, p25) of L’Enclòs de Peralba explains: ‘Xarel.lo is the only variety that truly tells the story of all the sub-regions of the Penedès. It’s a subtle grape that is easy to grow, yet hard to master.’
Penedès is split into three major sub-regions that can be thought of as a series of steps coming out of the Mediterranean sea. Baix Penedès is the lowest and warmest of t
