DECANTER WORLD WINE AWARDS 2023
15 Malvazija and Teran wines to try
If there is one country’s wine quality evolution to follow at the Decanter World Wine Awards, it might well be Croatia. In just two years, the country has more than tripled its Gold medal count at the international competition. But what’s more, its indigenous varieties have featured in the realm of quality improvement.
Divided into four major wine regions, Istria, the largest peninsula in the Adriatic, is marked by its proud producers, determined to make a name for their region’s staple varieties: the white Malvazija (locally Malvazija Istarska) and red Teran.
For the ambitious winemaker and adventurous wine enthusiast, Malvazija is remarkably varied. It can be produced and enjoyed in a light, fresh style, but its intrigue comes from time maturing on lees, in oak, on skins or aged in bottle. With the region’s red mainstay Teran, producers have found ways to thoughtfully cultivate, vinify and harness the full potential of this local variety, embracing and fine-tuning its tannins to produce fruity, elegant reds which can, and have proven to, compete on the world stage.
The authenticity inherent in Istria is skilfully mirrored by the adeptness of its producers. Aware that quality starts in the vineyard, they intrinsically understand Istria’s distinctive red, white, grey and black soils and how each influences their indigenous varieties and the subsequent wines produced.
‘This is a country with incredible diversity,’ commented Caroline Gilby MW, DWWA Regional Chair. ‘Each region has a strong story and distinctive identity; there’s always something new to discover.’
Below explore 15 regional standouts from the 2023 competition, with more to seek out at awards.decanter.com
Malvazija
Kabola, Unica 2019
96 Gold kabola.hr
Concentrated and full of flavour, this has a distinct definition and pleasant aromas of ripe pear and Mirabelle plum. Intense fruit on the palate accompanied by poached plum notes, with a long mineral finish. Alcohol 14%
Vinarija Rossi, Malvazija Istarska 2022
95 Value Gold vinarossi.com
Wonderfully crafted, boasting a delightful honeyed and floral aroma and flavour. Its refreshing acidity and distinctive, lingering finish make it truly exceptional. Asuperb choice for any occasion. Alc 12.5%
Vivoda, St Euphemia Malvazija 2019
95 Gold vina-vivoda.hr
Beautiful complexity with rich and elegant oaky flavours, complemented perfectly by zippy acidity. It’s full-bodied and finishes with delightful notes of peach and nectarine that linger. Lovely. Alc 13.8%
Eliđo Pilato, Malvazija Sur Lie 2019
94 Silver £34.80 (2015)
Croatian Fine Wines, Novel Wines Salted citrus, camomile and candied pineapple aromatics – glorious. Sleek and supple on the p