the moment
An epic fashion fantasy for the ages, John Galliano’s Maison Margiela Artisanal show was a reminder of how powerful it can be to escape into unfettered creativity
AS THE FIRST FULL MOON OF THE YEAR REFLECTED ON THE RAINsoaked pavements of Paris, the scene was set for one of the most memorable fashion moments of the decade. John Galliano was about to close the SS24 couture season with an era-defining Maison Margiela Artisanal show. It not only demonstrated his sublime talent but also transcended catwalk conventions, taking the idea of a fashion show as far into the realm of performance art as possible. More than a collection, it was a manifesto for the importance of creativity and self-expression, coming as it did in a season where real clothes and straightforward presentations took precedence over soaring fantasy.
A secret doorway under the Pont Alexandre III bridge became a portal to Galliano’s alternative universe: a seedy, turn-of-the-century Parisian speakeasy strewn with the detritus of a riotous party. A cast of demi-monde characters that evoked a gas-lit era of bygone bohemia and deadly decadence strutted, scuttled, preened and posed their way through the venue under the genius movement direction of Pat Boguslawski. Models wore extreme hourglass silhouettes with padded hips, their waists acutely cinched by corsets, with merkins (pubic wigs) clearly visible beneath some sheer, bias-cut gowns. Their faces were painted by Pat McGrath to look like porcelain dolls, with hair piled into a fin de siècle frizz on top of their heads by Duffy;
WWD described it as a Toulouse-Lautrec painting come to life.
Galliano had unleashed something – an energy so pure in its creative expression, so shocking (haute pubes!) that it took your breath away. The commitment to craft and the desire to produce moments that provoked an emotional response marked a significant vibe shift away from spreadsheets and It bags, shareholders and global growth plans. At a moment when the industry feels more commercially driven than ever, Galliano offered a tantalising alternative: here was an invitation to dream.
The appeal felt particularly poignant against the current backdrop: trust in politics and the goodness of human nature is at a low; women’s rights are being rolled back; hate speech is on the rise. This immersive show offered a glimmer of hope. When ugliness and conformity reign, there is something brave in daring to believe in beauty and celebrating an alternative life in which the outsider is the hero.
A few weeks later, at Paris Fashion Week, Balenciaga’s Demna challenged showgoers to consider the role p
