BELL & ROSS
“September was a big step for Bell & Ross, restyling our BR 03 with a completely new look,” says Carlos Rosillo, co-founder and CEO at the brand. “One millimetre shorter and a more modern design.” Millimetres matter when your stock-in-trade is military and aviation-inspired timepieces, notably Bell & Ross’s circle-in-a-square concept inspired by vintage cockpit dials. Also memorable in 2023 was a new range entering the permanent collection — the BR-X5. The larger, more technical family was launched in sunray black and sporty ice blue, with the option of a high-grade rubber strap. bellross.com
1. BR 05 Skeleton Golden, 40mm steel case and bracelet, £6,500
2. BR 05 GMT Sky Blue, 41mm steel case and bracelet, £5,000
3. BR 05 Chrono Green Steel, 42mm steel case and bracelet, £6,000
4. BR 03-92 Diver Tara Ocean, 42mm ceramic case on rubber strap, £4,900
5. BR 03 Black Matte, 41mm ceramic case on rubber strap, £3,700
6. BR 03 Golden Heritage, 41mm steel case on leather strap, £3,500
BLANCPAIN
Founded in 1735, Blancpain holds the honourable title of Switzerland’s oldest watch manufacturer. It is best-known for its Fifty Fathoms, launched in 1953 and often claimed to be the first “modern” dive watch. That makes it 70 in 2023, an occasion that afforded it a trio of anniversary models spaced throughout the year, titled Anniversary Act 1, Anniversary Act 2 and Anniversary Act 3. The series was interrupted by an even bigger event, the unveiling of a £340 collaboration with Swatch, the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms Collection. In September, Act 3 closed out with a £32,000 Fifty Fathoms, based on the mil-spec model used by 1950s armed forces and rendered in 9K bronze gold. A fitting end to a big year. blancpain.com
1. Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Moon Phases, 43mm titanium case on Nato strap, £14,700
2. Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback, 43mm titanium case and bracelet, £17,000
3. Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback, 43.6mm ceramic case on Nato strap, £15,800
4. Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 2: Tech Gombessa, 47mm titanium case on rubber strap, £24,700
5. Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback, 43mm red gold case on canvas strap, £29,100
6. Fifty Fathoms Tourbillon 8 Jours, 45mm titanium case on canvas strap, £108,300
BREITLING
Breitling’s rapid rise from fuddy-duddy aviation watch brand to the watch world’s top table is the sort of thing that will taught in business schools for years to come. Four years ago it owned 50 boutiques globally; that number’s about to hit 300. In 2023 it again delivered a record fiscal year,
