Let the good times roll

6 min read

From mimosas, vintage cars and historic battles to cool jazz in the snow and Red Hot Chilli Peppers in July, France’s fêtes celebrate anything and everything, says Joanna Leggett

Provins, east of Paris, hosts a massive medieval festival each year that recreates the foires de Champagne
© SHUTTERSTOCK

The French love any opportunity to celebrate. History, music, the terroir, plants, flowers, automobiles, music and opera, as well as landmark battles or wars, food and wine – they’re all a reason to celebrate here!

Sport, too, sees the bunting unfurled with the Tour de France bringing the country to a standstill for three weeks each summer as it criss-crosses France, crowds and celebration marking the route. In 2023 racing starts in northern Spain on 1 July before culminating three weeks later on the Champs Elysées – even those who don’t like cycling will be mesmerised by the amazing TV coverage, which provides fly-by views of beautiful countryside, dozens of châteaux, towns, lakes and amazing architecture interspersed with obligatory cuts to the peloton and competitors jockeying for position and the yellow jersey!

Summertime also brings the spectacle of medieval fairs, festivals and markets. Some will see everyone in period costume enjoying feasting, fencing, jousting and dancing. In Provins, east of Paris, the foires de Champagne are recreated each year in a massive medieval festival; troubadours greet you on street corners and you can witness all sorts of knightly sports, as well as learn more about how our ancestors lived. It’s very close to Reims and the Champagne region as well as being in the heart of brie country! What could be better?

Pageants celebrate every age and everyone from Joan of Arc in Rouen to the Great Roman Games in Nîmes. At the latter, over 500 ‘re-enactors’ take part in games each year with a different theme. Every year there’s a Roman legionary display, chariot racing and a gladiator fight in the Roman arena, plus parades and other attractions to keep the whole family entertained. Nîmes’ amphitheatre is one of the best preserved in the world, so you can watch games just like the Romans did.

LET BATTLE COMMENCE

Castillon la Bataille in Gironde was actually named after the final battle in the Hundred Years’ War when the English were finally defeated. This event is commemorated by a magnificent son et lumière staged nearby including hundreds of foot soldiers, nobles, cavalry and pyrotechnics followed by medieval feasting. Close to St-Émilion, you can marry the latter perhaps with tasting a little grand cru?

In living memory, perhaps the most moving are the D-Day commemorations held each year in Normandy on 6 June, where the world’s largest ever invasion took place 78 years ago. Guided tours allow you to walk in the footsteps of the Allies and you can watch parachute drops, historical re-enactments,