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Alison Weeks explains why those looking to make the move to France need look no further than the beautiful Pas-de-Calais
“If it were but 300 miles further off, how the English would rave about it,” Charles Dickens once quipped about Boulogne-surMer, his French home in the Pas-de-Calais. And the same could still be said about the area today. But with its wide, sandy beaches, historic towns and plentiful countryside, this northern department offers an authentic French experience within easy reach of the UK.
Named after the Strait of Calais – the French term for the Dover Straight – the Pas-deCalais also shares its name with the largest city in the department. Although British tourists often pass through the port on their way to more far-flung places, Calais is well worth a visit and a great option for those wanting to relocate to a city. The bustling centre ville offers a foodie paradise with fine fromageries, wine shops and chocolatiers, as well as a wide range of excellent restaurants to choose from.
Calais’ unique history makes it a particularly fitting place for British expats to settle. In the Middle Ages, the Pale of Calais fell under English rule for more than 200 years and was known as “the brightest jewel in the English crown”. It was a vital trading port for lead and tin, and a crucial foot on the Continent for England.
Another British influx occurred in the 19th century when lacemakers from Nottingham smuggled an illegal lace-making machine into the country and set up shop in St-Pierre (a small village that was eventually incorporated into the city).
This led to an economic boom that would entice other Brits to move there. Although only a few lace-making companies remain, the delicate fabric is still made locally and you can learn all about its history at a dedicated museum, the Cité de la Dentelle.
FLEMISH ROOTS
The capital of the department is Arras, the former capital of the Artois region, known for its picturesque squares and Baroque architecture. Once part of Flandres, Arras boasts a distinctly Flemish feel that has more in common with nearby Lille than other cities in the Pas-de-Calais. When it comes to dining, you’re more likely to find an estaminet than a brasserie here, with Flemish specialities such as carbonnade flamande and Welsh complet on the menu.
Every year at the end of November, the city centre becomes a winter wonderland with the annual marché de Noël, as the central Grand Place is filled with wooden chalets offering unique gifts, seasonal treats and plenty of vin chaud. Arras is also known for its towering b
