Our treasured magical moments

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From preaching Midnight Mass to wearing fancy dress, our favourite stars share their festive rituals

MARY WEARS: DRESS, HOBBS. NECKLACE, SUSIE PRINGLE. PHOTOGRAPHY: NICKY JOHNSTON. STYLING: NATALIE READ. HAIR & MAKEUP: JO PENFORD. SET STYLING: NATALIE ANDREW. ROYAL BLUE SPRUCE TREE, BALSAM HILL. WHITE FLUFFY TREE DECORATION, THE WHITE COMPANY. ALL OTHER TREE DECORATIONS, COX & COX. OPPOSITE PAGE: PHOTOGRAPHY: NILS JORGENSEN/INSTARIMAGES.COM

Dame Mary Berry on the art of the perfect turkey and the joy of Christmas with her grandchildren.

I was 10 when the Second World War ended, so my childhood Christmases were fairly frugal, but always happy. In the morning, I’d go to church with my parents and brothers, William and Roger, then we’d go home for Christmas dinner, which was a capon – a type of doctored chicken popular during wartime – as well as roast potatoes and vegetables from the garden.

I remember The Queen’s first Christmas speeches, which became the most important part of the day. We’d all kneel on the floor and listen to her on the radio, then we’d play games, such as charades, in the evening. My favourite thing to do on Boxing Day was to ride my pony, Kerry Lass, with Dad. It was always lovely to have Dad around. He was a surveyor before he became the Lord Mayor of Bath, so he was almost always busy working.

In the past few years, we’ve had some very strange Christmases. Usually, my husband, Paul, and I go to our daughter Annabel’s or son Thomas’s, but last year Thomas’s family had Covid, so I carved the bird and gave them half. The year before, when we weren’t allowed to mix households indoors, we had a drink outside at Annabel’s, then took our dinner home!

This year, I’ll cook the turkey at home, then we’ll go to Annabel’s. My trick is to cook it until it’s just done, then wrap it in foil, cover it in tea towels and put it in a sleeping bag – a turkey will stay hot for hours as long as it’s well insulated. I’ll also take a trifle… there will be trouble if I don’t!

Everyone has a role to play on the day: my five grandchildren, aged 11 to 17, write and illustrate the name place cards, while my daughter-in-law Sarah’s father is in charge of the games. One of our traditions is to present a poem or reading at the table – I think this year I’ll do The Nun’s Prayer.

My greatest joy is seeing how excited the younger children get. Nothing beats that moment when everyone comes through the door and I think, ‘Aren’t we fortunate?’

Cook And Share: 120 Delicious New Fuss-Free Recipes (BBC Books, £27) by Mary Berry is out now

Line Of Duty star Martin C

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