Safari guide

3 min read

ALL IN A DAY’S WORK

Natalie McComb owns Nile Horseback Safaris, leading expeditions through the Ugandan wilderness

My mother always said that my first word was horse.

Growing up in rural New Zealand, there were certainly plenty of horses to love. It was a relationship that was written in the stars. I understood their language and they graciously tolerated mine. From my Pony Club days to serious event riding, then finding myself living in Uganda, my passion for horses never wavered.

My training trip took me all over the continent. I remember very clearly touching one of the wild Namib desert horses. This lovely bay stallion just wandered up out of the desert and stretched his neck out, briefly connecting with my fingertips, before heading off into the dunes.

I’ve been stationed in Uganda since 2004 and built my life here.

I have the wonderful joy of owning Nile Horseback Safaris, living with my husband and daughter, who’ ll be 18 soon, born and bred out here. We’re eventing as much as we possibly can. All our serious competitions take place in Kenya – two days’ journey on the lorry – so it’s not easy.

I’ve always said the best eventers are the best safari horses, and the best safari horses make the very best eventers.

Our horses were all off-the-track thoroughbreds initially, but these days we have wonderful warmbloods, sport horses, Ethiopian and Somali ponies – all are superb.

People say, “These horses are bombproof, how do you do it?” Well, they have to be, and it’s all exposure. Training starts with walking in-hand around the villages. By backing age, they’re not afraid of chickens running under their feet or crowds of people shouting, chanting and drumming as part of a traditional ceremony.

Our tours have been in development for over 20 years.

It’s all flexible – routes change constantly with extreme weather and agriculture, and we’re lucky enough to enjoy beauty spots and stays in stunning lodges.

The real value is experiencing all these places on horseback. We’re seeing raw, untouched, warts-and-all Uganda, which is worlds apart from other African safaris in national parks. Yes, you get your big game, but you don’t get exposure to communities.

With King Kanyamugara of the Batwa.
Pictures by T J Lonsdale

I first met the Batwa tribe, known as pygmies, while doing my training.

After hours of trekking, we arrived at a tiny village of concrete houses and tin roofs. I remember thinking, “But pygmies live in the rainforest, I’m not seeing any rainforest here”.

We were greeted by the villagers, who had their hands out for money immediately. A few shillings paid over, and several Batwa tribe members were forced out with sticks and shouts, and made to perform a dance for us. I