With its golden sands, colourful seafront cottages and bustling harbour, the Welsh village of Aberdy filies amid a spectacular landscape that changes with the ebb and flow of the tide
IN THE QUIET of an April morning, the sands seem to stretch forever. From the edges of the bay, the narrow buildings of the shore front are a distant ribbon of colour; the wharf crowded with freshly painted boats. Beyond, the village climbs the clefts of the high hills and beside the road that curves along the river mouth; the mudflats of the opposite banks silvered with slicks of water. It is a picture-perfect scene, and one that makes this small, unassuming village among the most popular places in Wales.
Aberdyfi – also known as Aberdovey – nestles on the southern fringes of Snowdonia National Park, at the mouth of the R iver Dyfi as it pours its mountain waters into Cardigan Bay. River, sea, hills and valleys combine in breathtaking landscapes, and people come here to sail and swim, play golf in the renowned links, or enjoy walks in lush valleys.
“It really is a special place,” says local councillor Dewi Owen. “There’s a beautiful beach here, and it’s lovely to walk around the village. The views are spectacular, especially if you climb up and look over the bay. From my farm, a couple of miles outside the village, I can see right down to Pembroke and the two pinnacles in the bay, and over to Bardsey Island. It’s so unspoilt. We get lots of visitors – people coming here for the day or for a holiday – and many visitors return year after year."
One such was artist Nick Coldham, co-founder of the village’s ArtWorks gallery, whose family have links with the village going back a century. “My grandparents honeymooned in the area in 1922 and took a trip to Aberdyfi. They fell in love with it – so much so that they had every subsequent summer holiday here and were even here in 1939 when war broke out. My mum was just seven years old and was bitterly disappointed that they had to abandon the holiday. I, too, spent every weekend and every school holiday here, sailing, fishing, mountain walking and wild camping, and I feel this area is my true home.
“In the summer, the town is busy and vibrant, but out of season, many holiday homes and shops shut down, and it’s very empty. As the spring approaches, Aberdyfi comes back to life. The weather always seems better on the coast: boats start to be put back in the water, and there’s a sense of excitement and anticipation. The sea – while still cold – is very tempting, and the brave will be seen heading into the waves. It’s an ideal time to visit, with wonderful walks along the beach and beautiful views up on the hills.”
Still waters Aberdyfi’s rise as a seasi
