Dutch royal tour

11 min read

CRUISING

The Leaver family take Duchess, their regally named Van der Valk 1800, on a return visit to her homeland

Middelburg’s colourful Binnen-Haven
PHOTOS: Francesca Leaver
Duchess in the Veerse Meer

Duchess is a 2002 Wim Van der Valk Continental 1800, which I bought secondhand in the Netherlands and brought back to the UK in 2017 (See MBY Sept 2020). The delivery trip gave me a taste for cruising in the Netherlands and I always promised that one day we would return there for a family cruise.

This is the year we decided to make it happen. The plan was to spend a couple of weeks on the delta taking in the Veerse Meer, Oosterschelde, Grevelingenmeer and Haringvliet, but first we needed to find a suitable weather window for crossing the Channel and choose an easy Schengen port of entry for the paperwork. July 2023 was the wettest on record, with heavy winds to match, and I was beginning to wonder whether my carefully laid plans would work. Thankfully, as we approached our scheduled departure date, the long-term forecasts improved. This is the story of our cruise.

Family meal aboard

ENTERING EUROPE

My son Archie and I are blessed with calm seas and sunny skies for the passage from Chichester to Eastbourne. Our plan is to go direct from here to Nieuwpoort in Belgium. It’s a 95nm passage rather than a short hop across the Channel from Dover to Calais or Dunkerque but I’ve heard too many stories about bad experiences with French border controls and we’re keen to reach Holland as soon as possible so we can meet up with my wife and daughter, who are flying direct to Amsterdam.

We complete the UK Border Force paperwork online 24 hours before departure as advised (www.spcr@homeoffice.gov.uk) and the Belgian paperwork for entering the Schengen Area(https:// apps.digital.belgium.be/forms/show/police/pcdec?Ing=en). Within a couple of hours an email comes back confirming clearance.

The entrance to the Harringvliet
Locks are a way of life in Holland and boats are packed in cheek by jowl to minimise waiting times. This one is on the way into the Grevelingenmeer
We swim, paddleboard and relax in the sunshine, watching the world go by
Enjoying the market in Zierikzee and rafted up in the Stadshaven
Windmill at the entrance to the Zierikzee

We have reserved a berth at the Vlaamse Yachthaven and fly our Q flag on arrival before presenting ourselves at the marina’s police office where we are given a friendly welcome and the all-important passport stamp. The Belgian border team at Nieuwpoort, led by the cheerful Dennis De Clerk, pride themselves on providing a friendly service rather than the obstacle course that their French counterparts seem to prefer!

Once cleared, we motor on to Vlissingen, a convenient entry point to lock into the southern end of the del

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