Richard Webber takes us on a whistle-stop tour of the European capital during winter
WORDS: RICHARD WEBBER
When countries across the world are urging people to ditch cars in favour of public transport, it’s good to see a nation keen to help its citizens on their way.
Leading the way is Luxembourg. After helping with directions on my free map of the capital Luxembourg City, Josiane, the ever-helpful hotel receptionist, said, “You can walk to the centre in about 25 minutes or catch the tram – it’s free! There is no charge for using public transport in Luxembourg.”
Since March 2020, public transport across the country – which is slightly bigger than Greater London – hasn’t cost a penny. Luxembourg has also bucked the European trend of vanishing local bus routes by improving its transport services to ease traffic congestion and help achieve climate targets.
Opposite Philharmonie, a concert hall, I jumped aboard a waiting tram heading for the city centre. The line opened in December 2020 and the service is punctual and efficient. Every stop has its own little jingle!
The first adventure on my three-day itinerary was the Pétrusse Casemates. A network of 17th-century tunnels and stairways, they acted as underground defences for this fortified city, often dubbed the Gibraltar of the North.
Patrick, our guide, ushered us underground through sections of what is, reputedly, the world’s longest defence system comprising miles of passages. Light shows and sound effects bring the city’s exciting history back to life.
In fact, this picturesque city oozes history with much of the old quarter’s layout and fortifications just as they were centuries ago. It’s divided into two parts – the Bock atop the hill and the Grund forming the lower section. I’d recommend exploring both, either by taking the Pfaffenthal Lift, a glass-bottomed elevator, or taking the path which snakes its way down while offering glorious views.
With the city centre so compact, exploring on foot is easy. I picked up a City Promenade walking tour leaflet from the tourist office. The two-mile route took me around the city centre, the Old Town, the fortress walls and main monuments. Starting at Place Guillaume II, I admired the square and Town Hall before passing the Grand Ducal Palace, home to the country’s Royal Family, with its photogenic 16th-century façade.
The Bock Promontory offers a fine vantage point from which you can see many landmarks in t
