THE DRINK
SMOKY AND PUNCHY, THIS SMALL-BATCH MEXICAN SPIRIT IS CATCHING ON IN A BIG WAY ACROSS THE GLOBE
What is it?
Mezcal technically refers to any spirit made from agave — meaning all tequilas are mezcal, but not all mezcals are tequila. However, over time the name has come to refer more specifically to a distinct spirit that differs from tequila in certain key aspects. For example, while most tequila is produced industrially, mezcal is a fundamentally artisanal affair, made in small batches according to traditional methods. The surge in the spirit’s popularity has led to concerns that producers may struggle to meet the rising global demand.
How is it made?
The production of mezcal isn’t nearly as strictly regulated as it is for tequila —a reflection, perhaps, of the drink’s roots as a working-class moonshine. To get Appellation of Origin status, it must be produced in Mexico from any of around 40 types of agave (unlike tequila, which is made exclusively from blue agave), and flavourings can be freely used. To make it, the piñas, or hearts, of the agave are cooked in pits in the ground for around three days. These are then crushed into a mash (often using a stone wheel turned by horse) that’s left to ferment, with the resulting liquid then distilled in clay pots. Mezcal that’s intended to be drunk immediately (‘joven’) is bottled at this stage, with the rest left to age in barrels, sometimes for up to 12 years.
How should I drink it?
The best way to acquire the taste is in cocktails, swapping the tequila in a margarita or the gin in a negroni for an entry-level bottle of El Recuerdo de Oaxaca Mezcal. Once you’ve become used to it, sip on an affordable aged mezcal such as Zignu
