The inspiration for Black Forest gateau, Schwarzwälder kirschtorte is enjoyed all over Germany, especially during an afternoon coffee break.
Clouds of whipped cream loaded with thick curls of bitter chocolate, kirsch-soaked chocolate sponge, pockets of tart, juicy black cherries and a thin, crumbly pastry base: Schwarzwälder kirschtorte (‘Black Forest cherry torte’) is, for many non-Germans, the quintessential German cake. A speciality of the Black Forest region in Germany’s southwest, it’s enjoyed on special occasions and in generous slices as part of the country’s traditional 3pm coffee and cake ritual — often referred to as the fourth meal of the day.
It’s an extravagant cake, but one that’s beautifully balanced in flavour and texture, and for all its chocolate, cream and cherries, not too sweet. The origins of its name are hard to pin down: some believe the chocolate shavings are a tribute to the deep, dark Black Forest, while others suggest the cake represents the region’s traditional women’s folk costume, the chocolate portraying their black dresses, the white cream their blouses, and the cherries the enormous red woollen pom-poms on their broad-brimmed hats.
where to find it
This grand, 160-year-old Viennese coffee house is renowned for the spectacular contents of its glistening domed cake counter. Reservations are a must. Slice, €4.80 (£4.10). maldaner1859.de
A cosy cafe in one of Berlin’s most elegant areas, which offers both traditionally German layered cakes and creative, modern bakes. Slice, €4.50 (£3.85). derkuchenladen.de
This traditional cafe in the heart of Freiburg’s historic Old Town serves what locals consider to be the best Schwarzwälder kirschtorte in town. Eat in, €4.70 (£4); takeaway €4 (£3.45). cafeschmidt.de
This French-style coffee house, confectionery and cafe sells an enormous selection of seasonal cakes, tarts and pastries, all made in-house. Slice, €4.20 (£3.60). konditorei-widmann.de
In the Black Forest, an allwomen team run this cafe in what was once a monastery hostel, using sustainable, regional ingredients for their sweet and savoury dishes. Slice, €3.90 (£3.35). cafe-goldene-krone.de
Another suggestion is that the cake’s name honours one of its key ingredients, Schwarzwälder kirschwasser, a smooth, aromatic kirsch, or cherry brandy, that has a bitter almond note and Protected Geographical Indication. Black Forest sour cherries are fermented and distilled into the strong, clear drink at small, rural distilleries, and true Schwarzwälder kirschtortes — as per the cake’s protected status as a Guaranteed Traditional Speciality — must include it.
The origins of the cake are equally dif
