Big zuu

1 Food that speaks of home When guests arrive I like to welcome them with something that evokes the comfort and welcome of a Sri Lankan home — roast paan still warm from the bakery, a punchy pol sambo

Chef Ben Tish shares his trolley triumphs, from umami flavours to storecupboard staples

LEISURE

Biryani is my favourite dish. I love rice. There’s a recipe in Monsoon – it’s a spicy beef pulao with green chilies, made with mustard oil – that I could eat at any time [p104]. Wake me up at midnight

If there’s anyone more obsessed with growing, cooking, eating and writing about food than Mark, we’re yet to find them. His books, such as Sour (2019), have won awards, so he knows a goodie when he se

Ask these three cooks and they’ll tell you ...