Sizzling, smoked or sour

Restaurants bursting with fresh Scandi seafood, traditional bakeries and fancy coffee shops… Trondheim, split by a river that separates the old town and the new, has it all – plus historical highlight

Jane Keightley unearths an exciting island destination that’s teeming with hidden foodie delights

Staying in Europe’s longest hotel in the pretty mountain town of Szczyrk is a wonderful way to discover Poland’s food culture and unspoiled landscapes, says Helena Lang

LEISURE

Switzerland is rich, especially in clichés. Many are largely true. There are some I’m not so interested in – banking, precision watches, nuclear shelters and referendums. But others, I certainly am –

Serves 6Prep time 10 minCook time 1 hour BE A BETTER COOK Caramelising your onions like this is known as making lyonnaise onions. It takes a little patience but it’s worth getting right. The technique