WHAT THEY’RE EATING IN
Delicate desserts and creative vegetable dishes bring the Romanian capital’s food scene to life A rose of pickled radish at Kané
PICKLED WHITE RADISH & SMOKED KOHLRABI
Romanian nouvelle cuisine is the order of the day at Kané, an atmospheric spot where dishes are about spectacle as much as flavour. Although it’s not a vegetarian restaurant, chef Cătălin Bejenariu showcases the versatility of the high-quality veg that abounds in Romania, with tasting menus that follow the seasons. Look out for creative dishes such as a rose of pickled radish that sits prettily atop a tart filled with smoked kohlrabi, dotted with chive emulsion and micro herbs. kanerestaurant.ro
CAR MEN SYLVA CAKE
At this chic brasserie, pastry chef Ana Consulea revisits historic Romanian cake and gateau recipes, as well as devising her own contemporary creations. It’s tough to choose which sweet treat to start with, but a good bet is the Carmen Sylva cake, named after the literary pen name of Queen Elisabeth of Romania. It was created in 1893 for the royal’s 50th birthday, but Consulea’s version features the additions of amaretto and hazelnuts in the mousse filling, along with the original coffee and chocolate flavours. The outside of this delicate dessert is stencilled with a design inspired by traditional Romanian costumes. zexe.ro
GARLIC MUSHROOMS & FONDUE POLENTA
Dacia 25 is a small bistro that’s all about seasonality, provenance and classic homespun flavours. One of the most popular dishes is creamy polenta topped with mushrooms sautéed in butter, garlic and thyme. The cornmeal is cooked with milk and creme fraiche before three different cheeses are added to create a molten polenta-fondue hybrid. The mushrooms, picked locally, might be morels, chanterelles, boletus, or whatever else is in season. A grating of sheep’s cheese on top a
