NORTH EAST
The food of Isaan, the north east region, may be less well known internationally than central Thai cuisine, but its powerful hits of spice and fermentation will linger on the tongue — and in the memory.
When Thai people think of Isaan, the country’s north east, usually the first thing that comes to mind is the food. Isaan cuisine is characterised by its simple, local ingredients and punchy flavours — the classic profile is savoury, spicy and tangy. A key component in the cooking here is pla ra, freshwater fish marinated using salt, toasted rice or rice bran.
Tightly packed into a jar and left to ferment away from sunlight for at least six months, it’s brown in colour with an intensely pungent aroma. It’s this that lends a hit of umami richness to many of Isaan’s distinctive dishes.
Pla ra som tam You can’t talk about Isaan without a nod to the region’s most popular dish — papaya salad, or som tam. It’s enjoyed throughout Thailand, but a true Isaan-style version is made with pla ra and local olives (makok). Loei province, renowned for its extra punchy pla ra, is home to the best Isaan-style som tam.
WHERE TO FIND IT: The chefs at Som Tam Muang Loei ferment the fish for their pla ra using a family recipe, and it makes the som tam here extra special. Despite being in Khorat (the common name of Nakhon Ratchasima province), the restaurant name signifies its Loei origins. 3120 Dech Udom Road, Tambon Nai Mueang, Mueang Nakhon Ratchasima
Gai yang This dish of marinated, grilled chicken, served with som tam and steamed sticky rice, is the ultimate Isaan feel-good food. Originally a Lao dish, it’s now a Thai favourite, and each household has its own recipe, but all are slowly grilled on low heat over charcoal. The key ingredient, unique to Isaan, is lemongrass, and some recipes also add pandan leaves for a hint of floral sweetness. It’s served with jaew, a savoury, spicy and sour dipping sauce.
WHERE TO FIND IT: The best grilled chicken is usually found at roadside stalls, but Seri Grilled Chicken Khao Suan Kwang restaurant in Khon Kaen produces an ultra-flavoursome gai yang and jaew. Srimarat Road, Nai Mueang, Mueang Khon Kaen
Duck laab The best laab, a salad of finely chopped protein with herbs and other aromatics, treads a fine balance between spicy, salty and sour. It can be made with anything from chicken to pork to fish, but duck is considered a delicacy in Isaan. The classic recipe combines minced duck with shallots, sawtooth coriander and mint, flavouring it with fish sauce, lime juice, chilli powder and ground toasted rice. It’s perfect with sticky rice, fresh cabbage, cucumber and string beans.
WHERE TO FIND IT: Ask an Isaan local where to find the best laab and they’ll likely point you to Udon Thani province. Ban Nuea Laab-Koi makes a great version. 666/1 Posri Road,
