Sierra leone

2 min read

A TASTE OF

CULTURES FROM AFRICA, EUROPE AND BEYOND HAVE INFLUENCED THIS COUNTRY’S DISTINCT CUISINE

Banana and plantain mokor with chilli and smoked paprika mayonnaise.
IMAGES: YUKI SUIGURA; DAVE BROWN

Over the centuries, Sierra Leone has been a place of refuge. The Limba peoples were drawn by whispers of a land untouched by turmoil in Africa’s Sahelian kingdoms, and other tribes set out for there too, including the Mende, Loko, Susu, Fula, Temne and Sherbro. It was a place that embraced diversity, setting the stage for a journey of culinary exploration and growth that’s shaped the food history of Sierra Leone — or ‘Salone’ as many of its people call it.

The fusion of cultures is palpable in the country’s marketplaces, where vendors from different backgrounds stand shoulder to shoulder. These places are a sensory symphony. Amid the hubbub — people chatting, purchasing, telling stories — the air is thick with the smoke of roast cassava, the sizzle of fried foods that locals call fry fry, and the aroma of spiced kankankan beef and marinaded pepe chicken on grills. You catch the fragrance of seasonings and the sweet undertones of tropical fruit.

I grew up in Freetown, the capital, where such markets were common. The city has a unique history, culture and cuisine, owing to international trade, and the arrival of Muslim merchants, European colonisers and returning slaves from the likes of Nova Scotia and Jamaica. It’s — dare I say it — the home of Afro-fusion cooking. European influences are seen in doughnuts and tapalapa (a baguette-like bread); Lebanese traders introduced kibbeh (balls of bulgur wheat and meat); returning slaves brought cassava bread.

But Sierra Leone offers more than that. In this coastal nation, seafood is widely available, and our diet is very influenced by it: from fishb